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There isn't much left to say about meat ageing, a preservation technique adopted by the ancient Tartar people as far back as the fifth century. What fine-dining enthusiasts are now focused on is fish ageing.
Chef Josh Niland of Sydney’s Saint Peter restaurant is one of the pioneers of fish ageing and he did it in a rather surprising way precisely because fish, as we knew it before, was a highly perishable ingredient not suitable for long conservation.
But the gastronomic world, which rests on the solid foundations of tradition, is evolving and those in haute cuisine especially are always looking further afield. And so the ageing of fish has become a technique also approached by others.
In Italy, there are still only a few chefs who devote themselves to the ageing of fish because it is a complex method with strict protocols and is also expensive.
At Raffilù, a fish-focused restaurant in Peschiera del Garda, the ageing of fish products is the order of the day. The owner, Fabio Gambini, knows the techniques of fish ageing very well and how to reduce fish waste by choosing raw materials of the highest quality. We dined at Raffilù's and were told how and why fish ageing is done.
What is fish ageing?
Fish ageing is a preservation method used to improve the flavour and organoleptic properties of fish. Thanks to this method, the flavour is concentrated and it is possible to experience all the nuances of taste that are often missing with fresh fish.
The two stages of fish ageing
The first stage is called enzymatic precisely because the glucose inside the fish is concentrated, which improves the flavour. Knowing where the fish comes from and the method by which it is caught is very important. Restaurateurs and fishermen work closely together at this stage because the fish destined for ageing must not be subjected to any kind of stress. Trawling and net fishing are techniques that are not only unsustainable but also unsuitable for subsequent ageing. The time at which the fish is slaughtered is also crucial to ensure quality. In fact, the ikejime technique, which originated in Japan and consists of inserting a metal spike quickly into the head of the animal, is used. In this way, the fish not only feels no pain but dies instantly and no lactic acid accumulates in the meat.
The second stage takes place very organically and begins when the glucose in the fish's muscles runs out. In this phase, the focus is on fluid loss and the meat acquires a better texture and chewiness. This is detected by a drop in weight and is complete when there is a reduction of 10% to 18%, depending on the size and type of fish. The meat is then ready to be eaten.
The five steps of fish ageing
- Removing the innards from fresh fish. The innards of the fish are not thrown away but become the so-called fifth quarter of the fish and in turn, are valuable ingredients for other recipes.
- Next comes the sponging of the fish. Using clean paper, any residual blood and liquids are removed. At this stage, it is essential not to use water, which could be a bacterial vehicle that would deteriorate the fish and make it unsuitable for ageing.
- The fish is then hung upside down in ageing chambers, similar to those used for meat so that any residual liquid can drain away. The chambers are computerised and constantly measure the four fundamental parameters for proper fish ageing: humidity, temperature, ventilation and sanitisation. The temperature of the maturation chambers is between 2°C and 4°C (37°F to 39°F) with controlled humidity between 65% and 75% depending on the type of fish and weight. Larger fish, weighing 60-70kg (132-154lbs), clearly have a much slower maturation than fish weighing 6-10kg (13-22lbs).
- The enzymatic and glucose elimination phase in the fish flesh is then initiated.
- At this point, the fish is aged and can be passed on to the kitchen and consequently to the table.
How long does aged fish last?
The shelf life of aged fish is considerably longer than that of fresh fish. Aged fish is still perfect, even after six weeks. However, it must be stored, in a vacuum, in the refrigerator at a temperature of 1°C (34°F) following scrupulous professional procedures that cannot easily be replicated at home.
What are the characteristics of aged fish?
Aged fish is pleasant to chew and has a much more intense flavour that is not altered as in the case of smoking. Ageing affects the flavour of the fish simply by amplifying its natural taste. Ageing also tends to enhance secondary flavours which, in the case of fresh fish, are almost impossible to notice. An example of this is the amberjack with its marine yet delicate taste, which, once matured, offers hints of lemon thyme.
What makes a fish suitable for ageing?
To be able to ripen a fish, it must be very fresh. Raffilù tries to start the ageing process within a maximum of 24-36 hours from the catch. This is why they tend to buy local fish, from the closest seas, a company policy and choice that is good for the environment, the fishermen, the territory and also the taste.
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