US falls for lulo's unfamiliar zest

At Oakland’s Colombian stunner Parche, the decor and the food are colorful to the max. Not one of the best-selling cocktails, though. Como un Lulo, served in an old-fashioned glass, is a drink as clear as it is baffling—transparent and crisp it features a completely novel flavor that is tangy, sweet, seductive, and light.

As its name suggests, the cocktail contains a dash of lulo (otherwise named naranjilla), ‘little orange’ in Spanish. A perennial tropical plant known for its fragility—bright yet indirect light, warmth, and protection from the wind are some of the conditions for successfully growing it—lulo is popular in Colombia, Ecuador, and other Latin American countries, with origins that can be traced back to the Andes mountains, which explains its affinity for high altitudes.

Lately, the finicky citrus has been making a mark on the US dining scene, infusing dishes and drinks with unfamiliar zest. Its path to trendiness hasn’t been straightforward, and its tricky sourcing doesn’t make things easy, either. Nevertheless, bartenders and chefs, at some of the country’s most intriguing fine-dining establishments, are finding it worth showcasing. For them, it is as much about flavor as about celebrating heritage.

While it's nearly impossible to describe a taste to someone who has never experienced it, the chefs who have fallen in love with lulo are willing to try. According to Mark Liberman, chef and owner of Michelin-acknowledged Latin American fine-dining restaurant Mägo in Oakland, CA, the fruit “is almost a cross between a tomato and citrus." Adam Fought, Bar Manager at Seattle’s Stampede, describes it as “a combination of kiwi, pineapple, and lime with some bitterness.”

Paul Iglesias, chef and co-owner of Parche, thinks lulo’s flavor is a “trinity of acidity, with notes of orange, lime, and grapefruit that hit the palate in different stages.” Everyone can agree that in a scene saturated with trendy ingredients, lulo provides welcome foreign vibes and new possibilities.

For bar managers, lulo offers an interesting variation on tanginess and fruitiness. “It's a stand-out ingredient because of the complexity it offers,” says Emily Freeman, Bar Director at Mägo. “It’s sour, tropical, and even a little bit bitter. The bitterness and sourness balance sugar which allows me more wiggle room for other liquors and sweet ingredients.” At the restaurant, Freeman utilizes lulo in a herbaceous, fresh cocktail featuring St. George Green Chile Vodka, Mastic Tears Dry, avocado, tomatillo shrub, and lime. “It’s nice to have a tool other than lime or lemon to offer something that tastes unique,” Freeman adds, “and its tropical notes make for a flavor profile that pleases many palates.”

At the aptly named Lulo Kitchen in Cleveland, OH, lulo is infused into an old fashioned, giving it a fresh twist. At Seattle’s Stampede, the miniature citrus shines in a cocktail playfully named Now or Never or Maybe Later, which includes mezcal, pineapple, lime, passionfruit, guava, and Mezzodi amaro. “We’re always looking for new, exotic ingredients,” says Bar Manager Fought, who compares the lulo effect to the Asian pandan leaf—a flavor that the North American palate isn't very familiar with.

When it comes to cooking, lulo proves incredibly versatile, too. A glance at the latest menu of Elcielo Miami, part of the international Elcielo Dining Group, proves that lulo is equally fit for desserts and appetizers. At the 10-year-old restaurant, which has held a Michelin star since 2022, the fruit is part of a Colombian ceviche, the welcome bites—lulo gel garnished with a finger lime and golden berry—and the petit fours, which are filled with lulo.

“It is a fruit that can be used in sauces, ceviches, savory food or desserts, cocktails,” says Elcielo’s Executive Chef Juan Manuel Barrientos Valencia. “Its flavor is unique, one of a kind and strongly savory. It works fine with salt, spices, or sugar.”

As diverse as it is, tiny lulo is notoriously difficult to grow and transport fresh, as it’s delicate and prone to falling apart in the process. Chefs and mixologists often work around this by ordering the product in puree form. The Elcielo group sources theirs from Mr. Fermore, a Colombian-owned company that, according to Barrientos Valencia, imports high quality fruit pulp to the US and originally buys the fruit from fair trade Colombian farmers. Occasionally, chefs get lucky with a fresh lulo shipment from a small grower like Miami Fruit, which specializes in rare tropical fruit. Supply is always limited.

For the chefs bringing lulo to the forefront, not without challenges, the fruit represents both nostalgia and innovation—what they grew up with is a new, exciting flavor for many diners. “For me, lulo always brings back memories of my family, gathered in the afternoon, sipping lulada and spending time together,” says Parche co-owner Camillo Arcon, referring to a traditional drink popular in Colombia's  El Valle, made with lulo pulp, lime juice, sugar, ice, and water, or occasionally milk. 

“Lulo represents a moment—usually in the afternoon, when people finish work and gather to enjoy the drink, Arcon says. “It’s a fruit that brings us together, much like the meaning of the word 'parche,' which is all about gathering and connecting.” 

It is often a childhood memory as well; “When I would visit Colombia as a child, we would eat lulo with a little sugar because it can be pretty tart even when ripe. I also grew up eating it in jams for breakfast,” reminiscence Mägo’s Liberman. However, one need not grow up with lulo to enjoy it. “People really love lulo,” says Arcon. “Colombians are more familiar with it, but once someone tries it, they can't help but fall in love with its unique flavor.”