Save
The wildfires on Maui didn’t simply ignite suddenly, an isolated consequence of climate change. These fires were set generations ago.
Multiple industries were imposed upon the islands before the Kingdom of Hawai’i was overthrown. Summing up an extraordinarily ugly history of colonialism in a few sentences, a small whaling industry gave way to sugarcane in the 19th century (which not only changed the landscape of Hawai’i, but saw lo’i or taro fields converted to rice paddies to feed labourers from rice-consuming countries like China and Japan). Sugarcane gave way to the pineapple industry, which evolved into tourism. Since the closure of the last plantation in 1999, Maui’s former plantation fields have been overgrown with non-native brush, readily susceptible to fire.
In recent years, there has been a resurgence in reclaiming ancient Hawaiian foodways and cultivating the many varieties of taro or kalo native to the islands. But it hasn’t come soon enough. Whether we like it or not, Maui’s economy is now driven by tourism. Instead of pineapples and sugarcane, the island cultivates memories for visitors. To support a Maui that will hopefully be able to be less reliant on tourism, there is a dire need to support initiatives like Chef Hui and travel with a greater sense of Maui’s inherent needs.
Maui Nui Venison at Olivia
The kneejerk response to visitors after the wildfires was “don’t come.” “Some social media influencers, with ties to Hawai’i, but not necessarily with ties to Maui or Lahaina went online and said, ‘Maui is closed, give the island a chance to mourn and repair.’ That sentiment spread like wildfire,” explains chef Kyle Kawakami of Maui’s Fresh Streatery. Kawakami describes a sudden drop in tourism across the island, rental car lots packed with empty cars, and small local businesses struggling to stay open. While Kawakami’s customer base has been 95% local for the last decade, “There is a trickledown effect. If locals are not employed, they’re not going to eat out. The future is uncertain."
Officials and the Hawai’i Tourism Authority urge “visitors to refrain from going to West Maui (including Lahaina, Nāpili, Kāʻanapali and Kapalua) as a means of respect to the people and places that have been lost in Lahaina during this devastating tragedy. The impacted area of Lahaina remains off limits to the public as the search and recovery efforts continue.”
But the rest of Maui is open and needs support. Here’s a guide on how to best do so, according to Maui chefs, restaurateurs and business owners.
Eat local
Frolic Hawaii is an excellent resource, rounding up places to eat outside of West Maui, including institutions like Sam Sato’s and Tiffany’s.
Kawakami illustrates the strain on families that may not immediately come to mind. “Many local families took in family members into their homes. I know a family of six that is now a household of 19. That’s not unusual. They’re sleeping on couches, floors.” He will focus his efforts next on bolstering the support of these families and lifting the spirits of the community by distributing donated dinners, where his food truck dishes out kalua pig and cabbage and sauteed mahi mahi with tropical fruit relish at no charge to those affected.
Kawakami’s Maui Fresh Streatery has several programs in place to help locals directly, including an ‘Aloha Tip Jar’ and a pay-it-forward ‘Kokua Meals’ initiative. Those who would like to buy meals for affected locals can contact him on social media.
Hana-Maui Resort
Milagro’s in Paia is a popular stop for visitors before embarking upon the Road to Hana. Owner Al Janneck, had moved to Maui 23 years ago after a fire consumed his log cabin, he tells me ruefully, recounting a sad symmetry. While Milagro’s location rendered it physically safe from the fires, Janneck reports sales are down 60%, “like a spigot turned off after the fires.” When asked how long he sees his business remaining viable, he says, “We’re overstaffed. We used to be understaffed.” While committed to retaining his staff of 24, he admits, “We had to change the start times of our servers. Rent, insurance, fixed costs all remain the same. We’re losing money every day we’re open. 50% of our customer base is locals and right now, they’re not working. The only thing I can affect right now is my food cost and staffing cost and those doesn’t make a dent with our loss of income. It’s peaceful right now but peace doesn’t pay the bills.”
Where to stay in Maui
Janice and Sheldon Simeon (of Top Chef fame) took over ownership of Wailuku mainstay Tiffany’s last year. Janice advises, “Don't stay at condos or Airbnbs because many of those are [owned by] individual investors and thousands of displaced Lahaina residents need housing. Come to Maui with the mindset that everyone is affected, whether directly or indirectly, and be careful with what you're saying that could be overheard by the locals, and how you treat them.”
“Following the wildfires, cancellations poured in across Maui,” says Jon Benson, General Manager at Hana-Maui Resort. “Now, those who were directly and indirectly affected by the fires are at risk of also losing their jobs as tourism hits a record low.”
South of the affected areas, the Four Seasons Resort Maui has set up both an Employee Pantry and an employee-focused Golden Rule Relief Fund to directly assist and offer support to employees in need.
“Four Seasons Resort Maui continues to provide immediate aid to the community and care for our ‘ohana of over 1,000 employees, all of whom have been impacted directly or indirectly by the devastating fires on the west side of Maui,” says General Manager Ben Shank. “The hospitality sector, and our Resort, will play a critical role in the recovery effort through sustaining employment and encouraging the return of responsible travel. Situated in South Maui in Wailea, 30 miles distance from impacted areas, the Resort remains open and [we] encourage travellers to visit responsibly and mindfully.”
Ali'i Kula Lavender
In hospitality? Consider throwing a fundraiser dinner using Maui ingredients
“30% of all deer harvested through the remainder of 2023 will be directly donated to food-insecure areas of our communities,” says Jake Muise, co-founder of Maui Nui Venison, which leapt into action immediately after the fires, harvesting deer to feed hungry displaced residents. Maui Nui Venison is also served at restaurants on the mainland, and others can consider putting it on the menu and highlighting it to aid recovery efforts, as Heather Morrison, co-owner of Restaurant Olivia in Denver has.
“Maui Nui Venison’s dual mission – emphasising both environmental sustainability and community aid – was crucial before the Maui fires, and it has gained even more significance afterward. As a restaurant partner with Maui Nui Venison, we have the opportunity to create awareness about their mission in our community, leading individuals to not only appreciate the unique flavour of the venison but also to support the broader cause by ordering Maui Nui’s venison for their homes,” says Morrison.
Ali’i Kula Lavender is currently welcoming local guests with fees waived and free cups of lavender hot tea. Their culinary lavender has been used by this chef-author for years as an essential ingredient in cakes and sauces and they ship worldwide. “We believe through these tragic times, creating time for our wellbeing, immersing ourselves in lavender and grounding in our beautiful landscape is a great addition to our community in need,” says customer service supervisor Sarah R. Adams.
Be sensitive
Malia Yoshioka, a travel writer originally from Maui who now resides in Turkey says: “Ideally Maui's economy would be diversified enough to adapt and come through this tough period with resilience and strength. But the reality is that we are so dependent on tourism that it will take a long time to unravel the ties that bind us.” Yoshioka offers these suggestions for visitors.
- Educate yourself about local culture and go deeper into the history of the island. Learn about indigenous traditions and respect the land.
- Seek out small businesses rather than chain or big box stores.
- Visit local farms, farmers’ markets and craft fairs. Take in local art shows or concerts.
- Pack some extra patience. Most, if not all, of the people you meet will be carrying a burden as the community grieves together. Some hide it better than others.
- Keep your opinions to yourself. It's not the time to push for discussion of potentially sensitive topics or chime in on matters that don't concern you.
- Treasure your memories in private – while people do love to hear how you love Lahaina and visited once upon a time, keep in mind that the way you love their home is not equal to the way that they love their home.
And remember that recovery efforts are not just ongoing for the near future. “My biggest fear is because of the extent of the disaster, recovery is not going to be just a few months but a few years,” observes Kawakami.
Latest
