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The third day of the seventeenth edition of Identità Golose, the international congress of haute cuisine, opened with the usual big names in the auditorium, from Riccardo Camanini and Massimo Bottura, to Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leòn. There were also several interesting additions, with Identità di Cocktail and Identità di Pasta, and the jury for the next edition of S.Pellegrino Young Chef was previewed.
Identità Golose 2022 - the third day
Riccardo Camanini and the platypus: the evolution-involution of pasta
The morning in the auditorium opened with a speech by Riccardo Camanini from Lido 84. How to interpret the theme 'the future is today'? "We entitled our speech 'The Platypus' because it is a curious animal. And very often I have wondered if this animal that lives above all in Australia is an evolution or an involution of the species. I tried to understand how I could make pasta evolve or involute, making a parallel with the platypus, and I saw myself in a very small world with pasta, a symbol of Italian style," explained the chef.
The first preparation that Camanini showed was the pasta mostarda. For the second dish he used Chioggia scallops, which he thinks are the best in Italy, with a nutty taste; and a trident in pumpkin mustard, cooked roasted on one side (with a mustard nuance), combined with raw scallops with a cream based on turmeric, potato, extra virgin olive oil and white wine (a sour sauce that goes to contrast the mustard). "They are just side dishes, the idea is that of the platypus which represents the evolution or involution of pasta," said Camanini.
Matias Perdomo and Arianna Consiglio: pasta in the world
The space dedicated to Identità di Pasta, now in its thirteenth edition, opened the last day of the congress in the blue room 1. The goal of this masterclass was to show the different variations of pasta that span the whole world. On stage there were two of the most creative names in haute cuisine: Mattias Perdomo from Contraste and Arianna Consiglio from Exit Pastificio Urbano.
Consiglio, born in 1996, is the young chef at the head of the brigade of Exit Pastificio Urbano, and together with chef Perdomo presented two dishes for tasting. The first course was a fideuà, which is prepared with an innovative format for Italy, but very well known in Valencia. The second course was an egg pasta ravioli filled with goat cheese and spinach, seasoned with butter, sage and coffee powder.
Massimo Bottura: the future is knowledge, awareness and responsibility
Massimo Bottura introduced the new menu of Osteria Francescana, a new version (the first was that of 2015) of 'come to Italy with me'. Among the dishes is salty panettone stuffed with lentils and cotechino. This is followed by piadina, squaquerone and anchovies, a dish that tastes of Romagna, the pine forest and the essence of this territory. Risotto come una parmigiana is the connecting dish between north and south, and is served with a crust reminiscent of the charred remains of the aubergine parmigiana pan on family Sundays.
Among the main courses of the tasting menu was the porchetta di rombo, a journey that goes from the Adriatic to the traditions of Umbria. Juice from suckling pig heads and spelt crust to simulate the pig rind. Fiorentina and its side dishes, an extremely conceptual dish that evokes meaty flavours.
Pìa Leon and Virgilio Martinez: Peruvian biodiversity
Pìa Leon and Virgilio Martinez, also companions in life, and respectively running Kjolle and Central in Lima, discussed their gastronomic philosophy, which revolves around the biodiversity of their territory of origin.
"In our recipes we also take into account the marine ecosystem and local fruit, which is paired with fish," explained Virgilio while preparing the first recipe. "I was inspired precisely by the fact that this fish comes out of the water to feed on the fruit: why not combine fruit with the fish product?"
Among the preparations presented by the two Peruvian chefs was a very personal interpretation of Peruvian cocoa, of which they used three different parts: the internal pulp, the seeds and the external skin. Their new opening in Tokyo was also mentioned on stage.
Sabina Yausheva: How many cl does time correspond to?
The Identità di Cocktail room hosted Sabina Yausheva, recently awarded as the best barlady for the Identità Golose 2022 Guide. Yausheva focused her speech on the most precious asset: time. The time it takes to work well and live even better is based, according to her concept. on three points of view: time for oneself, time for the client and time for the bartender. Yausheva also focuses on the team under the motto of 'work hard and have great fun'. With your team you need to spend time, take courses and put ideas into practice. In her masterclass, Yausheva made two drinks: the first was called Negroni via PEC prepared with London dry gin, red vermouth, bitters, caramel flavour and pecan nut to garnish. The second was a cherry blossom, a twist on the old fashioned, made with bourbon, amaro, vanilla syrup and cherry beer.
Mattia Pastori and Franco Pepe: great cocktails meet great fried pizza
Mattia Pastori, award-winning bartender of Nonsolococktails, and Franco Pepe, the number one pizza chef in the world, took to the stage together. Pepe explained his idea to increase the quality of fried food, as well as to emphasise its healthy aspect. “For frying I used high oleic oils such as Frienn which has a high smoke point, and therefore resistance to high temperatures. My research on toppings allowed me to combine fried food with cocktails,” explained Pepe. The pizza master presented a recipe for fried savoury pizza, 'time sprouts', with wild herbs: asparagus, borage, cream of leek, dehydrated yolk on pizza, as well as a sweet fried pizza.
Mattia Pastori discussed the use of oils in cocktails to add texture, demonstrating how oil is able to change the perception of taste in the mouth and prolong the cocktail experience on the palate with his 'Franco's Fizz' cocktail. “We bartenders have the responsibility of serving low-alcoholic drinks, especially if we serve two in combination with pizza for pairing, like now,” he said.
Carmen Vecchione on her sweet art
Italian pastry chef Carmen Vecchione, from the Dolciarte pastry shop in Avelino, made a dessert combining both cheese and fruit, called 'fully-fledged after-meal dessert'. Using two sugars (sucrose and glucose powder) and pectin, then a puree of raspberries, and citric acid (lemon), in order to obtain a creamy consistency, she next prepared a cream of sheep's milk robiola with cream, sugar, and egg yolks set on a whipped sable base, where the whipped cream of robiola was combined with the raspberry compote, and decorated with edible flowers. The pastry chef also talked about her career and her passion for the profession: “This is not a job for me, but it is a real passion, I have not regretted my choice.”
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