José Luis Chávez’s guide to NYC’s best Peruvian food

“I love Japanese cuisine and I think the combination between Peruvian cuisine and Japanese techniques is the bomb. You can create so much. Llama San’s food is amazing, and I’ve known chef and owner Erik Ramirez since I moved to New York City 12 years ago. I was following him because I was very inspired by him—I think he’s very creative and precise with techniques. Every time I go to Llama San it surprises me. I’ve been going there since they opened, two or three times a year. They change the menu pretty often but last time I had their conchas a la parmesana, a take on the traditional dish from Peru. It was sweet, with onions, and he topped the scallop with parmesan foam. I went with a bunch of chefs and we ate so much, I don’t even remember what else we had.”

“When I see someone who inspires me, I am loyal, I will follow. Back in the day, I asked Erik for a job. Later he opened Llama Inn and I was like wow, I want to do the same. A few months after that I opened the first Mission Ceviche in 2016. I feel like I’ve been right behind everything that he’s doing. I was a fan of his at first, and then became a friend. The industry is tough and it’s hard to find a mentor. And the food—Llama Inn is like the new face of Peruvian cuisine. I like the freedom Llama Inn has, but they still respect Peru’s beautiful techniques and products. The lomo saltado is delicious. The way he takes Chinese scallion pancakes—you use them to make your own roll and eat the lomo saltado. He also has a scallop ceviche that is refreshing and delicious. I don’t drink but I know they have a beautiful cocktail program.”

“I knew chef Diego Muñoz when I was back in Peru in 2006 and 2007. He inspires me. One day at Mission Ceviche, I was cooking and I saw Diego sitting there and looking at me. I went to say hi, and he told me he was opening Popular in New York and we developed a relationship. His food is amazing. He’s another chef who brings his interpretation of Peruvian food to New York. The flavors are precise. The tiger’s milk is always the perfect amount of spice. I always bring friends there as part of my tour of New York City. One of my favorite dishes is their classic ceviche. Their rocoto with ponzu is really delicious [on the lomo saltado].”

“Chef Jesus Delgado is also a legend, who has been with Gastón Acurio for many years. Jarana is different. You sit down and you eat like you’re in Lima. Sometimes it can be hard to find real good Peruvian food in New York, but here you have beautiful, delicious Peruvian food with great service. It’s a great environment with an open kitchen and you’ll enjoy the experience. Jarana is 25 minutes from my home and I have a five-year-old daughter who loves their ceviche—she loves spice, and my boy is three and he loves their pollo a la brasa. We eat there and then we go to the mall. It’s like an adventure day. My favorite dish is also their pollo a la brasa—they have a charcoal oven—but also their lomo saltado and their anticuchos are the best.”

“This is where I go to relax and get a good ceviche. I’m not just a cook of ceviche, I’m a fan of ceviche. I can eat ceviche every day. They represent their name very well. You always go to cevicherias in Peru when you’re on the beach in the summer. You order cancha, choclo, and you drink tiger’s milk. They open just for summer, and I’m a beach guy so I’ll go to Rockaway and don’t do anything but eat and relax on the beach.”

“I go at least once a year. Last time I went when my dad was here, and before that when my cousin from Peru was here. Jora is a good representation of Peruvian food. It’s delicious, humble in presentation, but precise with flavor. This is the place for soul food. This is cocina criolla.”

“This is the best pollo a la brasa in New York and New Jersey. You have to try it. These guys are the closest to Peru. Peru has ceviche culture, chifas, and everyone knows how to make chaufa… and then you have pollo a la brasa. Leña y Carbón—their polla a la brasa just melts. You can even eat the bones. This is where you go if you want to eat like you’re in Peru. They have six locations and the one on Market Street in Paterson is the best one. You can smell it a block away. This place is packed with Peruvians and Dominicans.”