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Dreaming of sun-kissed vineyards? Branch out from old favourites like Provence and Piedmont in favour of lesser-known terroir to find better value and fewer crowds, plus heard-it-here-first bragging rights. Here are five wine roads less travelled to inspire oenophiles’ next adventures.
Sonoita-Elgin, Arizona
Photo: Lori Gregoire
20 miles from the Mexican border, in terrain that’s technically high-altitude desert, is an area that might just be – whisper it – the new Napa. As the highway from Tucson (a city that’s home to an exciting desert-to-dish culinary scene, in turn) winds up into the hills, towering saguaro cacti give way to golden grassland and sun-drenched vineyards. The number of wineries in Arizona has doubled over the past five years, many of them scattered between the small towns of Sonoita and Elgin. As many in the region will tell you, they’re not so much pioneering as reviving winemaking, as Spanish missionaries planted the first vines here back in the 16th century.
VISIT: No pretentious patriarchs in these parts: Sonoita-Elgin is all about salt-of-the-earth wineries staffed by their passionate owners. Such is the set-up at Dos Cabezas WineWorks, where husband-and-wife team Todd and Kelly Bostock will happily talk you through their rule-breaking blends over a wood-fired pizza.
STAY: Embodying Arizona’s ambitions to become a wine tourism hotspot, Los Milics Vineyards recently unveiled a sleek, new tasting room. Inside the weathered steel and glass structure by Chen + Suchart Studio, guests can pair wines with Spanish-inspired small plates by chef Ana Barrajo and (from November 2023) slumber in one of nine stylish, mountain-view casitas.
TASTE: Los Milics’ Oliver’s 2020 is a velvety, plummy Syrah blend – ‘a Sean Connery of a wine,’ according to founder Pavle Milic. For something sparkling, Dos Cabezas’ traditional method 2º Prínciprana combines grenache, riesling and tempranillo for a dry, toasty, slightly spicy finish.
Alentejo, Portugal
Photo: Goncalo Villaverde
Hear the words ‘Portugal’ and ‘wine’, your mind maybe goes straight to the Douro Valley and its famous fortified tipples from Taylor’s, Dow’s et al. But further south, Alentejo shows off the versatility of Portuguese winemaking, cultivated by the Romans between wheat fields (this region’s known as the ‘bread basket’ of Portugal) and broad sandy beaches.
The hot, dry climate makes for full-bodied, jammy reds as well as aromatic whites that pack in tropical fruits, and floral or citrus notes, depending on which of Alentejo’s eight DOC subregions they come from. While you’ll see syrah and tempranillo on some labels, this is an area where indigenous varietals shine, including trincadeira, antão vaz and arinto.
VISIT: Fly into Lisbon, hop in a hire car and after just an hour on the road your grape escape begins. First stop: Adega da Cartuxa, a prestigious winery on the site of an ancient Carthusian monastery, then onto Quinta do Quetza for a fusion of fine wine and contemporary art (there’s an excellent on-site gallery). Imposing Herdade do Esporão is renowned for artisanal wines aged in amphora (clay vessels), alongside an olive mill where oils are sampled with the same reverence as wines.
STAY: Portuguese boutique hotel micro-chain Octant provides food and wine-focused stays along the way. At Octant Evora, uncork a bottle in the sunken, fire-pit-warmed alfresco bar on balmy evenings, while Octant Santiago’s vast open kitchen quite literally places gastronomy centre-stage and staff will happily organise local winery excursions.
TASTE: Showing off the sophistication of native Portuguese grape blends today, and made using minimal intervention methods, Mariana Red 2021 by Herdade do Rocim offers strawberries and spice on the nose, giving way to silky tannins and a lingering finish. If you want a white, Herdade do Cebolal Branco is crisp, clean and mineral.
Southern Sweden
Global warming is shifting the locus of wine production; while established producers across the Mediterranean suffer, new, more northerly regions are benefitting, from Nova Scotia to Scandinavia. In Sweden’s southerly provinces – particularly Halland, Skåne and Gotland – hardy hybrid grapes like solaris are producing brilliant white or sparkling wines with high levels of acidity. Fans of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc take note.
VISIT: At Stora Boråkra, Staffan and Lil Ottosson blazed a trail by laying down their first (mainly solaris) vines in 2009. Hosting regular wine tastings, dinners and seasonal events, this storied 19th-century manor has become a magnet for wine enthusiasts, especially during autumn when guests can lend a hand with the harvest and gather for a celebratory glass or two afterwards. Over on the island of Gotland, newcomer Langmyre makes organic wines akin to Chablis (as well as some reds) with grapes from Italian vine nursery Vivai Rauscedo especially adapted to the Nordic climate.
STAY: Sparkling wine specialist Ästad Vingård has created a luxurious wine resort within the Åkulla beech forest reserve, featuring an underwater sauna, Michelin-starred restaurant and nature-inspired suites, some with vast stone bathtubs and private spa areas. For something slightly more rustic, 74-acre dairy farm-turned-winery Arilds Vingård recently added a cluster of glamping tents among the vines.
TASTE: The Swedes are excelling at crisp, fruity sparkling wines – pop open a bottle of Arilds Vingård’s Bubbel, a hit of elderberry, crunchy apple and brioche.
Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa
Stellenbosch may be the star of the show when it comes to winemaking in the Cape, but insiders are hailing Hemel-en-Aarde – meaning ‘Heaven and Earth’ in Afrikaans – as a real up-and-comer. Its pinot noir is particularly praiseworthy; credit to Peter Finlayson who spotted the region’s potential to grow what’s now its dominant varietal.
VISIT: Wineries in Hemel-en-Aarde tend to be a rustic, family-run affair where tasting rooms meet farm shops and hiking trails. Pay your respects at Hamilton-Russell Vineyards, the estate that Finlayson founded back in 1975. His next venture, Bouchard Finlayson, is a collaboration with Burgundy's Paul Bouchard and is equally worth a stop to sample the twin specialities: pinot noir and Chardonnay. Creation Wines’ pairing experiences are legendary – choose between the boozy daily brunch (five courses paired with five wines), six-course plant-based tasting menu or even a wine-and-chocolate pairing.
STAY: From its hilltop perch, Spookfontein Wine Farm lets guests soak up sweeping valley views from the comfort of two quaint cottages. Creation also offers contemporary farm stay accommodation. Think cosy log fireplaces and mountain bikes for exploring the area.
TASTE: Bouchard Finlayson does a sleek, sultry number with its Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir 2019. After dark cherry, cranberry and plum aromas, this limited-release red glides down with a hint of cinnamon spice and pepper.
Goriška Brda, Slovenia
Slovenia’s one of many unsung wine regions to be found across the Balkans. Hardly a newcomer to winemaking – in fact, it’s home to the world’s oldest living vine – it’s long been in the shadow of neighbouring Italy. That seems set to change, thanks to the trend for skin-contact orange wines and the fact Slovenia swept up 196 medals at last year’s Decanter World Wine Awards.
VISIT: One of the loveliest areas to visit is bijou Goriška Brda, dubbed the ‘Tuscany of Slovenia’ due to its rolling, cypress-studded landscape and medieval villages. White wines reign here, particularly pinot blanc, Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and rebula/ribolla (a regional speciality known for its high acidity and floral qualities), but robust Italian-style reds and amber varieties also get a look in. Kick-off in the cellar of Vinoteka at Dobrovo Castle, where 300 local wines from over 50 producers are available for tasting.
STAY: At Gredič, a Michelin-starred restaurant and epic wine cellar where lavender-scented gardens spell sensory delight. This 400-year-old castle has been masterfully converted into a design hotel featuring just seven minimalist-chic rooms.
TASTE: Looking like liquid gold and aged in French oak, biodynamic Movia Veliko Bello is an emblematic blend of ribolla, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris. Expect honeyed, buttery florals and lively acidity. Tropical fruit-forward Gasper Malvazija – from 100% malvasia grapes – is made by Gašper Čarman, twice awarded best sommelier of Slovenia.
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