Merlin Labron-Johnson’s guide to Somerset

Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson and the Somerset countryside.

iStock/portrait by Dave Watts

Merlin Labron-Johnson’s guide to Somerset

The Osip chef shares his favorite places to eat in the lush southwestern English county that has become a foodie destination.

BYTom Jenkins,

Journalist

14 October, 2024

England’s Southwest has much to offer for food lovers, not least the county of Somerset.

It’s home to many great restaurants, including Michelin-starred Osip, where chef Merlin Labron-Johnson invites diners for a taste of the English countryside through vegetable-forward dishes that are elegant without being showy, where everything tastes of what it is, utilizing techniques learned from his time working in France and Switzerland. Since opening in late 2019 it’s deservedly won a reputation as one of the best restaurants in the country. I once ate a life-changing onion dish there and haven’t been the same since.

This summer, Osip was relocated from the heart of the Somerset village of Bruton to a 18th-century inn just outside it, a larger site than the tiny but perfectly formed original, with four guest bedrooms, that brings the grower-chef closer to his beloved Somerset earth.

“I think that being stationed out in the fields, closer to nature and the land where we grow our vegetables will have a huge natural impact on our cooking,” says Labron-Johnson of the move. “Being in a larger kitchen will allow our cuisine to evolve naturally with a lot more space for development and trying things we wouldn’t have been able to before. We will also be cooking a lot more over open fire, both inside and outside so I am really interested to see how that influences the way we cook over time.”

When he’s not getting his hands dirty out in the fields or turning out perfect plates at the restaurant, this is where Labron-Johnson likes to eat, drink, and food shop in Somerset.

The Three Horseshoes

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“This cozy pub, just a few minutes’ drive from Bruton, run by Margot Henderson, is my regular go-to spot. It’s well-priced and open every day of the week. The cooking has a bit of that St. John and Rochelle Canteen vibe, but with a touch of Somerset charm that I really love.”

Woodshedding Brewery

“Located near Westcombe, this brewery, featuring a taproom, is great to visit for an authentic experience. A nod to its half-German owner, Adrian Peskin, the place somehow embodies a kind of German-inspired drinking culture. Sourcing ingredients from local farms, they are committed to sustainability and soil health.”

The Seymour Arms

“This is, without a doubt, my favorite pub in the world. Stepping inside feels like travelling back in time—the interiors haven’t changed since the 1950s, and that’s part of its charm. There’s no proper bar; instead, you order cider the way it’s meant to be enjoyed in Somerset: still, dry, not fizzy, and straight from the barrel. The cider comes from a local maker, but there are no labels or frills—you simply ask for a cider and savor it. Pair it with some pork scratchings, and you’ve got the most authentic Somerset experience imaginable.”

Landrace

“Landrace is one of the best bakeries in the country and is located in Bath. Downstairs, the bakery offers mind-blowing breads and pastries that are perfect for takeaway. Upstairs, the restaurant Upstairs, serves exceptional Modern European cuisine in a comfortable and inviting dining space. The open kitchen, attentive service, and nice wine list: in my opinion, the best restaurant in Bath.”

Horrell & Horrell

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“Horrell & Horrell host a weekly supper club, four days a week at Jules and Steve’s home in Somerset. It’s an established and well-loved project where you can enjoy a meal in an outdoor garden setting, surrounded by produce grown right on the property. The location is fixed, so it’s easy to book and plan ahead. It truly ticks all the boxes: relaxed atmosphere, experience at someone else's house, and farm-to-table.”

Rye Bakery

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“Rye Bakery is simply another standout bakery, housed in an old church. You can also enjoy lunch and pizza on-site. They have another location in town [Frome] dedicated to food and wine. The team is fully committed to local produce, often growing their own ingredients. They also host various events from time to time.”

The Creamery

“[The team behind] The Newt [hotel] just opened a new place in Castle Cary, The Creamery. They make their own cheese, process buffalo milk, and produce delicious ice cream. The venue includes a café and a farm shop where you can enjoy coffee, lunch (or just order for takeaway), while you watch the cheese-making process.”

Westcombe Dairy

“Westcombe Dairy is a must-visit for anyone in Somerset. Known for producing some of the finest cheese in the region, they also make their own charcuterie. The largest producer in the area, they also have an on-site shop, open to the public, offering the opportunity to taste and purchase first-hand their incredible products, from the ricotta to the Cheddar.”