Chef René Frank’s guide to where to eat in Berlin

The Coda chef shares his favourite places to eat and unwind in Germany’s ever vibrant capital.

René Frank, co-owner and head chef of two-Michelin-star Coda, in Berlin, is revered for his progressive ‘desserts’. His innovative approach is to use classic pastry techniques yet with wholly unexpected ingredients to create dishes with complex flavours that balance umami, salty, sour and bitter with unenhanced sweetness. He deconstructs traditional mindsets and tastes to show that desserts can be more than a final course. He forgoes refined sugar whilst elevating the natural sweetness of ingredients from carrots to sweet potatoes to create dishes that are light, playful and nourishing, as well as delicious.

Previously, Frank has worked in prestigious roles across the globe which have influenced his distinctive culinary style: from chocolateria Oriol Balaguer in Barcelona and three-Michelin-star Akelarre in San Sebastián to six months in Japan, including a period at Nihonryori RyuGin in Tokyo and Kikunoi in Kyoto, to Head Pastry Chef at La Vie in Osnabrück, Germany, all similarly three star, prior to opening Coda.

Here he recommends what to seek out in Berlin, from the best croissant to outstanding burgers.

“Owned by three former Michelin star-level chefs, who put impressive effort into making the best quality breakfast in town together with a most convivial vibe. I usually order the confit potato slice with poached egg. For wicked indulgence, the fried chicken waffle with sweet toffee sauce is unbeatable.”

“The best roasters in town who’ve worked on coffee plantations too and totally understand coffee. I serve their superb Brazilian blend at Coda. I go to their Kreuzberg cafe which is also home to the roastery.”

“In the last five years, French-style bakeries have taken off in Berlin. Albatross looks unassuming, yet their bakers are very talented. It is purely a bakery, not a cafe, though there’s a long wooden bench just outside. My favourite is the crème brûlée baked in flaky pastry. They just get the proportions absolutely right and it is rich, yet not too sweet. I sometimes stop here after a run and pick up a treat to eat on my walk home.”

“This is the oldest restaurant in Berlin dating back to 1621 and serves the kind of traditional, hearty dishes that you are more likely to still find in Southern Germany. I would suggest ordering either the pork knuckle or the calves' liver Berlin-style with apples and onion. Expect very hearty portions.”

“This is an exceptional place, founded by two Michelin star-level starred chefs and the newer sister to the OG Goldies fry and chicken shop on Oranienstrasse. Always humming, it is the chance to treat yourself to the finest smash burger, properly handcrafted with the best ingredients and smashed down so that the burger really caramelises and explodes with bold umami flavour. The burger is served with outstanding housemade condiments and buns. Understandably, it gets very busy.”

“This Turkish ocakbasi serves the best charcoal-grilled kebabs. They buy the whole animals and butcher them in-house and the quality shows. It stays open until 3am and can still be pretty hectic then. I’ve tried to cut down my meat consumption, so I don’t go quite so regularly now.”

“Sebastian Frank’s restaurant is a neighbour to mine and we are friends rather than rivals. I like the way he plays with the flavours of traditional Austrian food yet emancipates vegetables. His cooking appears unspectacular and pared down yet has so much intrigue, especially in the textures. The mushroom terrine served with brioche and apricot kernel butter is sensational.”

“Sitting on the velvet benches, there is a seemingly endless view of the entire city, Berlin at its best. It is a kind of culinary crossover style that is well conceived without demanding your full attention. A romantic place for a date.”

“The mirrored and graffiti-covered facade belies the serious, yet fashionable restaurant inside run by Duc Ngu. There’s an open kitchen serving a creative mash-up of Vietnamese, Japanese, Italian, even South American. My favourite dish is their miso cod.”

“Amazing vegan and vegetarian Szechuan food that retains all the vibrant and fiery flavours I like so much.”

“I have an absolute weakness for tiramisu, I just love the juxtaposition of chocolate, coffee and mascarpone. I think about desserts so much that sometimes it is a relief to just go out for an old-fashioned, yet iconic dessert made well by someone else.”

“Head to the old-fashioned Marktplatz and check out The Sausage Man Never Sleeps, a British man who strangely makes the best bratwurst in Berlin with lots of spices and herbs.”