Let My People Go … to the Wine Shop

When the Israelites fled Pharaoh’s stronghold after 430 years of enslavement in Egypt, their hasty departure left no time for bread to rise—giving us generations’ worth of stories and, of course, matzah.

Each spring, Jewish families around the world—Ashkenazic, Sephardic, and beyond—gather around the Seder table to commemorate the Exodus during Passover. The story goes: Moses, prophet of the Lord, demanded Pharaoh let the Israelites go or face a cascade of plagues. After nine warnings went ignored, the tenth—death of the firstborn—swept through Egypt.

The Israelites, instructed to mark their doors with sacrificial lamb’s blood, were spared. Pharaoh’s household, along with the rest of Egypt, was not. Grief-stricken, he let the Israelites go. But their escape was so swift, their bread never had a chance to rise—thus, the dry, cracker-like matzah still eaten today.

Why Wine Matters at the Seder

These days, Jews gather each spring for the Seder—a ceremonial meal that commemorates the Exodus with a parade of traditional dishes: matzah ball soup, gefilte fish, bitter herbs, brisket, roast chicken, potatoes, sautéed asparagus, candied carrots—and yes, the ever-present, oh-so-dry matzah.

And alongside it? In many homes, a bottle of cloyingly sweet, low-alcohol Manischewitz. Sure, it helps get the matzah down—but is that really what you want? Didn’t we suffer enough under the Pharaoh’s hand?

Instead of defaulting to Manischewitz, consider setting the table with an array of wines to pair with the full Seder spread—including the symbolic Seder plate. You’ll find elements like a lamb shank (representing sacrifice), parsley dipped in salt water (for the tears of slavery and the arrival of spring), horseradish (bitterness), and charoset—a sweet mix of apples, walnuts, cinnamon, and wine meant to resemble the mortar used by enslaved Israelites.

The Challenge of Pairing Wine with Passover Food

Alpana Singh, owner of Alpana in Chicago and formerly the youngest woman to pass the notoriously difficult master sommelier exam, is no stranger to the Seder table—she was previously married to a Jewish man. She’s a fan of the food, the traditions, and the family vibes. And while most menus follow a familiar template, Singh points out that every dish carries a signature twist.

“Everyone makes the dish their own way. There’s so much variation in how people make the dishes,” she says. “The lore and love of Passover is the family proprietary recipe of each dish, and that’s so specific to each family.”

One family might serve brisket with sweet ketchup, Vidalia onions, and carrots; another might spike it with smoked paprika and cayenne. Matzah ball soup could be loaded with dill or simply seasoned with salt and pepper. Side dishes? All over the map. And that makes wine pairing... complicated.

The solution?

“Set up a wine buffet,” Singh says. “Put out a bunch of bottles and people can help themselves based on what they like. You can put a tag on each bottle to describe the wine.”

Start with Crowd-Pleasing Whites

If you’ve got guests who lean sweeter, Singh recommends a semi-sweet Riesling—maybe one from Washington State. That style works especially well with gefilte fish and matzah ball soup, thanks to its acidity, which cuts through the richness. And since gefilte fish is basically a fish pâté, Singh notes, lighter white wines are the move.

Want something a little more crowd-pleasing? Go for Sauvignon Blanc. “Who doesn’t like Sauvignon Blanc?” she asks, laughing.

Chardonnay? Sure—but tread lightly. Oaky, buttery styles can be polarizing and don’t always play well with fish or more delicate side dishes. A safer bet: an unoaked California Chardonnay or a white Burgundy. If you want to keep with Sauvignon Blanc but dial it up, Singh suggests Sancerre. “Sancerre can be fun on the table to get a little fancier,” she says.

Singh also recommends branching out with an Albariño from Spain’s Rías Baixas region or even a white Bordeaux, typically a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.

What ties these wines together (aside from the Riesling)?

“They’re all high acid with notes of green fruit and snappy, tart, citrusy notes,” Singh says.

Prefer something a little more middle-of-the-road? Try a Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigio, if Italian’s more your vibe) or a Chenin Blanc.

Light-Bodied Reds for Brisket, Chicken, and Sides

Okay, so what about the mains—brisket, roasted chicken, maybe salmon—and all those sides like scalloped potatoes, potato kugel, and roasted or sautéed vegetables?

“You could go with a light-bodied, thin-skinned red and then move into something more robust,” Singh says.

Start with Pinot Noir, Gamay (aka Beaujolais), Sicilian Frappato, Grenache, or Sangiovese. That last one is especially versatile—it bridges the gap between light and full-bodied reds. From there, you can head into Côtes du Rhône (a blend often anchored by Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre), Syrah from Santa Barbara, or even a juicy California Zinfandel.

“If you’ve got a brisket that’s smoky with dark fruit, a Northern Rhône-style Syrah is a great match,” Singh says. “But if your brisket has a sweet-and-tangy sauce—like onions and ketchup—go for a Zinfandel with some weight, robustness, and bright fruit.”

What to Skip: The Case Against Cabernet

Singh advises skipping Cabernet Sauvignon—it’s just too tannic and tends to overpower much of what’s on the Seder table.

“It’s not the redness that gets in the way—it’s the tannins,” she explains. “If you eliminate the tannins, the wine becomes more flexible across the board. Cabernet is really only going to pair with heavy meat.”

End on a Sweet Note: Wines for Dessert

And for dessert—whether it’s flourless chocolate cake, apple cake, chocolate-covered matzah, or macaroons—you can keep pouring those light-bodied reds. Or, switch it up with Brachetto d’Acqui, a slightly sparkling, semi-sweet (but not cloying) red wine that’s practically made for dessert.

“It’s like puppies—everyone loves it!” Singh says. “It’s great with chocolate; it’s like having strawberries and chocolate together. If you serve Brachetto, people will love it.”

Hosting Tips and the Final Pour

At the end of the day, it’s really about creating a warm, memorable experience for your family. Think about what they actually want to drink. Are they wine-savvy—or just happy with something simple?

“If you do it right, just get a white [like Sauvignon Blanc] and a red [like Pinot Noir], and those wines are all-purpose entertaining wines,” Singh says. “That just makes you a good host.”

And let’s be honest: Great wine can’t part the Red Sea, but it does help you survive family dinner—and maybe even 40 years in the desert.