Ulrik Jepsen’s guide to Oslo

Danish chef and co-owner of À L'aise in Oslo, Ulrik Jepsen, whose restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star in 2023, epitomizes modern culinary classicism. 

In an exquisite fine dining setting, he elevates the best Norwegian ingredients with the precision and knowledge of a chef who has worked at renowned restaurants including the three-star Waterside Inn in the UK, and Kokkeriet and Søllerød Kro in Denmark. He resolutely ignores trends in his cooking at the restaurant and is rigorous about only using exceptional ingredients, including plenty of caviar.

Oslo has a reputation for being very expensive but that is far from the whole picture as Jepsen recognizes and it is not the only way he likes to eat. “There are lots of newer restaurants building their reputations that are reasonably priced and many more casual affordable places to explore. It’s a great time to visit,” he enthuses.

Here’s Jepsen’s guide to where to eat and drink in Oslo.

“I love the vibe of the new Sommerro hotel with its glamorous 1930s Art Deco meets Nordic design in the heart of the Frogner district. The Ekspedisjonshallen serves classic dishes including perfectly cooked eggs Benedict in a luxurious high-ceilinged room. Sometimes there is jazz too.”

“Kafeteria August is a straight to the point, unfussy, yet excellent place for breakfast. There is always just a small choice of perhaps five things, [including] a good pain au chocolat and absolutely correct sourdough with smoked ham and Norwegian cheese.” 

“Mocca is a super friendly neighborhood coffee shop which roasts its own coffee, so good that we serve it in the restaurant. It is part of my life. I must have gone there about 150 times this year.” 

“Whether fermented codfish (lutefisk) available during the winter season or a whole roast sheep’s head (smalahove) complete with eyes, you can experience something different at Engebret Cafe. The sheep’s head is salted, sometimes smoked and dried, boiled for about three hours and served with potatoes, turnips and smoked sausage. Yes, it is a provocative dish that looks quite grotesque, but it is a good, traditional experience and the meat is actually very tender. Before Christmas, they will have roast saddle of reindeer on the menu too. The restaurant has retained its 19th century interior from when it was a bohemian literati haunt.”

“Le Benjamin Bar & Bistro is a small, somewhat hipster French neighborhood bistro that I find very convivial. I often just sit at the bar and always get talking to some interesting people. My favorite dishes are tarte flambé, the cheese plates and chocolate soufflé. It is open Sunday evening, which is useful."

“Szechuan is an outstanding Chinese restaurant. Ask for the Red menu, where the most interesting dishes can be found. It is refreshingly different to anything in my classical repertoire. We will order 10-12 dishes to share. My favorite is Szechuan aubergine with garlic sauce and ordinarily I never order vegetarian dishes. I also like the braised pig’s ear and pig’s stomach. I often see two- and three-star chefs eating here. It is absolutely spot on.”

“On Sundays there’s Vippa Oslo street food market by the water. The quality is high, and I especially like the Arabian kebab.” 

“For romance, I just have to recommend my restaurant, which is quiet, intimate and candlelit with very special food and just the right environment. There are wedding proposals here every month!”

“This is the place to go for the most interesting high quality Norwegian cheeses and fermented foods.” [Various locations].

“One-Michelin-star Sabi Omakase is minimalist and impeccable. I love to sit at the counter. Best of all is the very elegant uni dish. I really like watching the chefs brushing the raw fish with a special glaze. It is so good.”

“Himkok is an amazing, lively yet hidden spot which features in The World’s 50 Best Bars. They have their own rum and gin distillery within the bar, and they pour spirits straight from the still to the glass. The service is amazing and it is open until 3.30am at the weekends.”

“I like to eat everything too much to really go for vegetarian but occasionally I’ll have the vegetable ramen dish at Hrimnir Ramen.”

“What Rest is doing with leftovers, giving a fine-dining treatment, is phenomenal. They use rejected, misshapen vegetables and fish tails. They transform leftovers into jewel dishes, it truly is the future. There’s a dish made with king crab tail, brined and steamed in seafood stock that really impressed me in the way it elevated waste and was so tasty. They ferment chocolate and fallen apples and turn it into a luscious, chewy fudge.”

“Mendel’s pastry shop is best for Parisian-style bakes including next level Paris-Brest and mille-feuille.”

“Kveitemjol bakery has tip top Norwegian classics such as cinnamon buns and kardemummabullar made with milk bread dough filled with cardamom custard and coated in sugar and coconut.     

Fjordalléen 10 
Oslo, Norway

+47 40 01 88 61

“This is the place to go for the most interesting high quality Norwegian cheeses and fermented foods.” [Various locations].