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CHARCUTERIE

How to craft an epic charcuterie board (according to chefs)

Journalist

Chefs weigh in on the most important elements of a charcuterie board, from the types of meats to use to the arrangement of the board.

Charcuterie boards are a culinary staple in many cultures around the globe. Charcuterie in its native French, charcutería in Spain, salumi in Italy, choucroute in Alsace, Vesper board in Germany, the platter’s contents vary, but at its simplest is a presentation of cured meats and cheeses often served as a shareable snack before a main meal.

In recent years, these boards have been especially relevant in pop culture and on social media; the birth of the charcuterie influencer seemingly catapulted charcuterie offerings to the top of global menus.

“Charcuterie boards are amazing because there are so many different combinations of bites to enjoy,” says Michelle Wallace, chef-owner of Houston’s b’tween sandwich co. “Also, it’s an interactive dish; you use your hands a lot and I love eating with my hands!”

In addition to being an exciting snack to whet the palate with a variety of tastes and textures, charcuterie encourages communal dining and a shared experience. Charcuterie boards can also be evocative of a season, with the likes of fresh berries adding color to the neutral hues on a summer board, whereas cold-weather fruits like fig jam and halved pomegranates can spice up a winter aesthetic.

Regardless of the season, however, there are some ingredients that should always be on a charcuterie board to bring variety, texture, and depth to both the palate and presentation. 

Chef Michelle Wallace.

Michelle Wallace of b'tween sandwich co.

Pickles, jams, and house-cured meats

Chef Gabriel Kreuther believes a charcuterie board isn’t complete without a pickled cornichon, which adds “lightness, color, and interest beyond the meat,” he says. The strength of the spices and cures of the meats and pâtés can quickly build up in the mouth to become overwhelmingly salty, but the tangy cornichon offers a welcome contrast with its acid and crunch. “This resets us for another bite,” he says.

Cornichon aren’t the only briny ingredient worthy of a place on a charcuterie board, though, as Kreuther points to pickled white onions, while Wallace likes to incorporate a pickled item that exhibits a cultural element. “If my board has a heavy southern influence, then I'm definitely adding pickled okra or pickled green beans for the brininess but also to help solidify the story of the board,” she says. You’ll always find a pickled item on her boards as she explains how many cured meats, smoked fish, rillettes, and cheeses used on these boards are rich in fat. “Pickles will add not only an array of flavors but will cut through that fat creating a refreshed palate to continue enjoying your board.”

Spreadable accouterments are beloved by chef Dawn Burrell for adding layers to the bold flavors of a charcuterie board. Honey is one of the most traditional sweet serves, but Burrell opts for a tangy-sweet combination, like membrillo (a popular quince paste in Spain that complements the nutty characteristics when spread on a triangle of Manchego cheese) or marmalade. “These ingredients bring balance to a rich and meaty board,” says Burrell. Try a bitter orange marmalade over a soft Brie cheese atop a hearty cracker or warm slice of baguette. For even more depth to the board, add at least one spicy ingredient like a hot pepper jam. 

Gwen butcher shop in Los Angeles.

Gwen is inspired by London’s butcher shops. Photo by Wonho Frank Lee

Going back to basics, Katy Valdez, charcutier at Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant in Los Angeles emphasizes that no charcuterie board would be complete without a cured ham. Her favorite: culatello. “It is similar to prosciutto except it is deboned and hand-tied, then cured and aged,” says Valdez, of the meat that hails from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy.

“When I moved to Los Angeles, what I found to be missing was the old world-style butcher shops I had become accustomed to while working in London,” shares Gwen’s chef-owner, Curtis Stone. “When you step into Gwen, you are immediately in front of the butcher counter, and it remains the heartbeat of the restaurant and everything the chefs do in the kitchen.” Therefore, like all the charcuterie at Gwen, Valdez creates the culatello in-house, curing the meat with salt, Lambrusco (a sparkling red wine also regional to Emilia-Romagna), rosemary, garlic, and black peppercorn. After curing for two weeks, the meat is hung for 12 months. “The result is a beautifully marbled muscle that is clean and savory on the palate,” says Valdez.

On a charcuterie board, Valdez says, culatello is “very simple and straightforward,” providing a contrast to salamis and pâtés which are more structured from a culinary standpoint. “Visually, it's very delicate and lacy and I like to just drape it across a piece of fruit on a charcuterie board. It's suggestive and fun!”

Chef Curtis Stone.

Curtis Stone. Photo by Andrea D’Agosto

Tips for building a complete board

The underlying theme of these favored ingredients is variety, which is the essential foundation for creating an epic charcuterie board. Variety should exist in taste, texture, and visuals.

When conceptualizing a charcuterie board, you need to first and foremost, “Check your taste buds,” says Wallace. Ask yourself: “Do you have something that hits all the tasting notes… something sweet, salty, sour/briny, bitter and umami?”

During this planning process, remember to think about not only the flavors of the ingredients but also their textures. This can be done by adding “pâtés, terrines and not only cured meats but smoked ones as well,” says Kreuther, exemplifying the diversity of sausages served on a charcuterie board in Alsace, including, spreadable, dried, smoked, and cooked meats.

A range of cheese textures is also important for flavor and mouthfeel, says Burrell. “I love including at least one goat or sheep’s milk cheese to mix it up.”

After considering and choosing the unique flavors and textures for your charcuterie board, you don’t want to haphazardly arrange everything. “Start with your more geometric shapes like pâtés and cheeses and then work your way through your components, finishing with the more organic shapes like fruits and nuts,” suggests Valdez.

Once the build of the board is complete, Wallace advises on the finishing touches: “Pair it with beautiful crusty breads, crackers, and a great bottle of wine!” 

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