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Albert Adrià is not, in his own words, “a person that likes to look back.” But with the announcement of the closure of his elBarri restaurant group, now is the perfect time to reflect on the Catalan chef’s achievements and the empire of restaurants he established in Barcelona and beyond, under its umbrella.
After the closure of elBulli in 2011, Adrià sought to continue the gastronomic legacy of the game-changing restaurant, which he helped build alongside his brother Ferran. The result was elBarri, a portfolio of diverse restaurants located primarily in the el Paralel neighbourhood of Barcelona, in partnership with the Iglesias brothers.
Photo: Sebastian Gomez
Whether helping to popularise Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei, making vermouth a cool aperitif again, or ensuring spherical olives were still a thing, the legacy of Adrià’s work with elBarri will live long after the shuttering of the group’s restaurants (some, including Enigma and Cakes & Bubbles, will remain open).
The best way to tell the story is through the food, so we asked Adrià and his team to talk us through the dishes that defined elBarri’s glorious decade.
1) 41º: Blackcurrant dry meringue churros with horseradish cream (2011)
Photo: Moisés Torné
"This sums up one of the ideas of 41º. Our motto was 'Two fingers, one bite' – we wanted to create a whole menu of just finger food paired with the best cocktails."
2) Tickets: Mini airbags filled with Manchego espuma and hazelnut caviar (2011)
Photo: Moisés Torné
"This star dish was on the menu from the first to the last day at Tickets. The airbags were a modification of the famous air baguette from elBulli, but the shape was changed to allow them to be eaten in one bite. Filled with decadent Manchego foam, light yet with strong flavours, the dish became an instant classic. It summed up Tickets’ values: a fun tapas concept, strong identifiable flavours, and the sharing of food at the table."
3) Bodega 1900: Cured and smoked mackerel (2013)
Photo: Moisés Torné
"Simple: the best product, traditional techniques and style, no need for explanations. Bodega 1900 was a re-vindication of the whole world around vermouth and typical Spanish bodegas. In a moment where everything was avant-garde and modern, this space satisfied a need and love for traditional cuisine."
4) Pakta: Torched salmon ‘maki-causa’ with aburi sauce (2013)
Photo: Moisés Torné
"This dish is a perfect example of Pakta’s Nikkei cuisine, the very typical Peruvian causa mixed with Japanese makis or nigiri. Potato, ají amarillo, torched salmon, aburi, avocado – it was a perfect mix of both cuisines, in flavour and conceptually."
5) Niño Viejo: ‘Swiss chicken enchilada’ (2017)
Photo: Tristán L. Steward
"The idea for Niño Viejo was to refine (just a bit) a typical Mexican taquería. With tortillas made to order on the spot with the best Mediterranean ingredients, it was fun, flavourful, loud, and colourful."
6) Hoja Santa: ‘Margarita’ (2015)
Photo: Moisés Torné
"This was a playful dessert with the flavours of a Margarita cocktail in the shape of a Margarita ('daisy' in Spanish). At Hoja Santa, Paco Méndez was given the freedom to work his magic; it was arguably one of the best Mexican restaurants outside of Mexico. All the traditional flavours from Mexico’s vast gastronomy were refined and put into a haute cuisine restaurant context. Fortunately, Hoja Santa will reopen this year."
7) Enigma: Foie gras cured in anchovy salt (2018)
Photo: Tristán L. Steward
"The perfect example of what Enigma has been trying to do for the last few years: research and fully understand each product used on the menu, dishes with very few ingredients, and lots of hidden technique only at the service of making these few products shine, in this case, a simple slice of foie gras with a pure salted anchovy flavour."
8) Heart Ibiza: Photo of the artists (2018)
Photo: Alex Soto
"This picture explains that Heart was not only about the food, but the interaction of food, art, and entertainment."
9) Cakes & Bubbles: Signature cheesecake (2018)
Photo: Tristán L. Steward
"This iconic Tickets dessert has already transcended borders. For those that never had the chance to go there, you can still enjoy this delicacy at Cakes & Bubbles in London. White chocolate, hazelnut, Coulommiers cheese... both light and decadent."
10) Mercado Little Spain: Giant airbag with jamón Ibérico, molletes and vermouth with a gilda (2019)
Photo: Think Food Group
"One of the dreams with Mercado in New York was to bring authentic Spanish cuisine out of Spain, a cuisine that unfortunately has not travelled very well over the years. Stews, bocadillos, cheese, cold cuts, Ibérico, tapas, croquetas, paella, sangría, flan... the food Spaniards love, done right!"
