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NYC’s best ‘fine diners’

Kellogg’s Diner in New York.

Evan Sung

NYC’s best ‘fine diners’

Discover the best diners in New York City offering so much more than standard diner fare.
12 November, 2024

We are currently in the age of the New York diner renaissance. Earlier this year, observing that millennials were transforming the traditional American diner across the city, the New York Times asked, “Can Young Chefs Save the NY Diner?

I would venture that yes, indeed they can.

20 years ago, when I moved back to New York City as an adult (more or less) and enrolled at New York University, diners sustained me. They were foreign to me (I was raised in Hong Kong and Hawai’i) and embodied a nourishing kind of kitschy, retro Americana that was otherwise rare in NYC. Diners were places where I got to figure out for myself what American comfort food was: large portions, served on heavy ceramic dishes, disco fries, and your coffee cup refilled without you asking.

Everyone I knew back then had their go-to neighborhood diner and mine was the Neptune Diner in Astoria, where a chicken salad sandwich and a cup of soup were so large that they could sustain me for three separate meals, there were dinner mints wrapped in cellophane by the door, and service was brusque. The food—unwieldy bagel sandwiches, omelets with home fries, Caesar salads—was always just fine.

The Neptune Diner closed this year after a 40-year run, but diner culture is alive and well in the city. There are diners that, well, are just diners, but spruced up and reopened within the last three years, like Old John’s Luncheonette (first opened in 1951, reopened by a former employee in 2021), Montague Diner (formerly the Happy Days Diner, reopened in 2024), and Three Decker Diner (first opened in 1945, taken over by Variety Coffee Roasters in 2023). And there are other recent revivals with fine-dining flourishes, like the ones on this list.

Overall, NYC diner culture doesn’t look anything like it did 20 years ago. Here is a guide to New York’s reimagined diners, many of them rescued from a fate like Neptune’s. They’re all nostalgic in different ways (perhaps because post-pandemic, everyone is still looking for comfort food) and on their way to becoming new legends. Their food is far better than just fine, and I tapped a couple of other longtime New Yorkers to tell me about what they love most about them.

Thai Diner

Thai Diner is a welcome riot of bold flavors and exuberance. There’s a beer slushee machine that rocks cold bottles throughout the night. For breakfast, you can get the NYC diner classics you crave, but they’re going to be mashed up with Thai ingredients. Of course they have egg sandwiches, for instance, but Thai Diner’s are served with sai oua herbal sausage and Thai basil and wrapped in roti. And certainly, they have an omelet, but it’s a tom yum crab omelet. Their outdoor streatery leans hard into their Thai influences and is just as much fun to sit in as their dining room as you dig into a plate of Thai disco fries, smothered in massaman curry with peanuts, and coconut cream.

Kellogg’s Diner

Pie at Kellogg’s Diner in New York.

Mahira Rivers

Kellogg’s Diner has everything you’d want in a nostalgic American diner (a dizzyingly large menu that has chicken fried steak and almost every other imaginable animal protein on it, chicken noodle soup, and a Waldorf salad), It also has an extensive and modernized cocktail menu. And its desserts are not to be missed. “Pastry chef Amanda Perdomo’s desserts at Kellogg’s Diner are just the right blend of accessible and elevated. The passion fruit Tajín icebox pie, one of the best desserts on the menu, was straightforwardly delicious, while a touch of brown butter in the graham cracker crust added complexity and depth,” says former Michelin inspector and food critic Mahira Rivers who writes Sweet City.

The Corner Store

Everyone is trying to get into the Corner Store, which bills itself as an “upscale take on a classic American joint,” so good luck. There’s a months-long waiting list, which is unsurprising given that Taylor Swift has already been spotted there twice. Its menu is also modern comfort. Think creamy artichoke dip, prime rib French dip, lobster rolls decorated with caviar, and platters of what would happen if disco fries and steak frites had a baby.

S&P

S&P in New York.

S&P is the rebirth of the legendary and beloved Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop, now under new ownership by the equally beloved Court Street Grocers. The space was cleaned up and lightly updated but the famous tuna melt was untouched. “I love the pared down simplicity of S&P. It feels timeless in its dedication to a great casual lunch with a friend. The flat top is its hearth, the rest of the restaurant built around it, as if S&P were destined to excel at tuna melts and Reubens, and it delivers,” says cookbook author and co-founder of the Gefilteria, Jeffrey Yoskowitz.

Superiority Burger

Traditional diners have never exactly been the most welcoming to vegetarians, but Superiority Burger caters to them. The paper placemats, advertising neighboring businesses, are hopelessly charming. Its decor is old school and nostalgic (there are booths), but its menu isn’t. This is where you go when nothing else will fix you other than a cornflake-crusted tofu sandwich. Looking for a Sloppy Joe? Try their sweet and savory tofu and vegetable-based Sloppy Dave.

Spanish Diner

This isn’t the only location of Jose Andres’ Spanish Diner (there’s now also one in Bethesda, Maryland), but it is the first and it is sprawling, stretching out beneath the High Line at Hudson Yards. The menu is more Spanish than Diner, and it has scratched my itch for reasonably priced pan con tomate and bikini sandwiches on more than one occasion. Its brand of Spanish comfort food does have some crossover with American diner fare, as it has many options for eggs and potatoes. Unlike any other diner, you can pick up a tub of Cola Cao from the grocery section on your way out.

Le French Diner

The Lower East Side’s Le French Diner is a beacon for chefs and a world away from say, Spanish Diner’s Euro American concept. It’s tiny and personal with a menu filled with straightforward French comfort food like steak tartare, grilled octopus, and hanger steak.

Golden Diner

“Golden Diner, opened by Chef Sam Yoo in 2019, has helped define the Two Bridges neighborhood to what it is today. It’s a restaurant that cooks food that speaks to its locality. The menu draws from its New York City diner roots, its Chinese neighborhood, what its residents want to eat (much of the menu has vegan offerings) and Yoo’s Asian American background. If you’ve ever been, or seen any of the recent viral TikToks, you know you must order the honey butter pancakes. It is 100% worth the hype, it’s something that you will crave again and again. I’ll generally start with a matzoh ball soup or Thai Cobb salad. Then go for the Chinatown Egg and Cheese Sando, an egg sandwich served with a hash brown patty inside on a sesame scallion milk bun or the chicken katsu club. The menu hits all the diner menu nostalgia spots with a New York City and Asian American spin,” says chef and restaurant consultant Christine Lau.