A taste of Lima with Nelson Freitas and Virgilio Martínez

We set off on foot down Domeyer Street (perpendicular to San Martín) to find this temple of home-style Creole cooking run by José del Castillo. Named in honor of his mother, Isolina, who is the guardian of the family recipes, Del Castillo revolutionizes said recipes with brain tortillas, winter stews, memorable lomos saltados, and updated ajís de gallina. His ceviche is one of the best in the city, it comes with octopus chicharrón. His pickled bonito (when it's in season) is a winner and his Italian-style mondonguito (pancetta) is very moreish. There is the possibility of ordering a round in which you can try a little of each. There are no reservations; if you want to go, ensure you have time to wait in line.

The perfect Lima breakfast is pork crackling and a good tamale. You can't miss the coffee, dark as a demon's soul. El Chinito is a pillar in this area, especially if it is also about highlighting the sandwich obsession that is part of the life of so many Peruvians. Simple bread, we call it French, even though it is not, and tender and juicy pork, accompanied by fried sweet potato and sarza criolla. The tamale is typical and made of yellow corn. There is also sarza sauce, to brighten up the morning. [Various locations]

Canta Rana is a classic, a place of worship created by Vicente Furgiuele more than 35 years ago. It has well-served ceviche and abundant seafood dishes that inspire long weekend conversations. It also pays respect to Lima’s devotion to football. Its little sister, Canta Ranita, has a distinct personality, more youthful and even more relaxed, it is located within the El Capullo Shopping Center in Barranco and is run by his son Vicente. At both, the ceviche with avocado and capers is a must and generates the best feasts.

_{Ken Motohasi}

At Ciclos, Felipe Aliaga (Best Specialty Coffee Shop and Coffee Roaster 2022) has created a small place of worship for the coffee bean. His careful way of telling the stories of those who come to him from all over Peru and his passion for the team is shared by researcher Amanda Jo Wildey at El Cacaotal. She has the same level of dedication and care, but with chocolate. This small temple of knowledge brings us closer to a world from which we are still learning and which, for many years, lived hidden in those high Peruvian jungles to which access was not easy due to social factors.

They can say what they want, but Unión or Chung Yion is a chifa (a meeting place of Peruvian and Chinese cuisine) in an old-fashioned neighborhood where if you don't fall, you bounce, with private rooms wrapped in red curtains and copious snacks that are enough for several people. The wontons are made daily by hand (you can see the masters sitting at the entrance tables making them non-stop) and the Chung Yion soup is perfect on cold days. It is usually full, so go with patience and with friends or family to share.

If there is a bar in Barranco that you should not miss, it is Juanito (it dates to 1937). It is not the original—when the owner died his descendants made an exact copy next door but upside down—but it still houses the famous vibe and bohemian nightlife that characterizes the neighborhood. At Juanito, there is beer, homemade chilcanos, and sandwiches made with country ham or pickled olives. There is also history, and a lot of it, as it is a place where poets, writers, journalists, artists, and musicians always find refuge for gatherings and refreshments.

From chef Juan Luis Martínez, the same owner of the award-winning Mérito, Demo is a space for baked goods, pastries, breakfasts, and snacks where constant perfection is sought. Venezuelan history unfolds on the table and meets with universal techniques for making cachapas, arepas, tequeños, croissants, and more. You will leave happy. If you want to discover more of Juan Luis's cuisine, visit Clon, which opened a few months ago and is a sort of younger sister of Mérito, with more relaxed and always delicious offerings. Don't forget to order the coconut milk flan and pineapple water caramel (lactose-free).

Let's go a little further, to a district where everything happens, the most succulent stews are cooked, and the freshest ceviches are prepared: Surquillo. This is where one of the most colorful and lively markets in the area is located and you get there by taking the expressway directly from Barranco. Fruit vendors arrange their products from across the country in harmony: pitahayas, aguajes, and coconas from the jungle, granadillas from Oxapampa, silky lucumas, juicy custard apples from Cumbe and aromatic mangos in season. If there's something you need, you will find it here, as there is also a section of spices and even fresh Asian vegetables. Potatoes do not go unnoticed for their variety, nor do pumpkins. In the shops further back there are new and even shamanic products and in the passageways on the sides, juicers that promise energizing and powerful concoctions. There are also cebicheras: you choose the fish and seafood, and they prepare it to order.

The small Surquillan bar Al Toke Pez is still run by Tomás Matsufuji (Street Food Lima, Netflix). The chef prepares basic recipes: ceviche, squid chicharrón, and rice with perfectly prepared seafood. If you are lucky and he is in the mood, one day he might produce an Asian-style saltado, a delicate tiradito, or a tribute to those dishes made by his father, the celebrated chef Don Darío. Go without pretension and be sure to drink the complimentary chilcano. 

Hector Solis doesn't play with his food, and those who are loyal to La Picantería know this. There he has created a menu that focuses on seasonal products and fresh fish, but also plays with Creole dishes that he reinterprets, with great success. His unforgettable cau cau, his stuffed rocoto, are part of the offering, which also includes ceviches and tiraditos, duck in loche (loche is a Peruvian cucurbitaceae with Designation of Origin), and lobster rolls. Virginia Najarro runs the kitchen and Johanna Aparcana, the manager, has expanded the premises to set up a microbrewery behind it with extra tables. In front is Chakupe, the Gran Despensa Moche, a small house where the offering is extended and flavor prevails, and you will also find artisanal products, such as pisco, beers, and dandy vinegar. Check out their desserts too, especially the cone with milk ice cream.

From Renzo Miñán and in Surquillo bordering Miraflores, El Almacén is a large and lively terraced ceviche restaurant that embraces local produce and puts it on the table in its best version. With the vision of Executive Chef Alonso Arakaki, together they are an interesting tandem offering good flavor and quality. Beyond cold dishes like ceviches, tiraditos, causa, clams, conchas, and so on, there are rice dishes, stir-fries, and pasta for cold days.

Another project by Renzo Miñán is Cumpa, which is presented as a Creole tavern with a northern tone. Also in Surquillo, here you will find causa limeña acebichada with creamy chili peppers, fish ceviche, and chicharrón de pejerrey; papa a la huancaina and corn cakes; conchas fuego with smoked chili peppers, corn, sarandaja, and chalaquita; and pastel de choclo atamalado. There is also bread with breaded and crispy pejerrey, among others.

Afuera Hay Más—A Young Chef’s Journey is available on Prime Video, in France, Italy, Peru, Spain, the UK and the US.