Seven Questions with Chef Mayank Istwal of Musaafer

Kolkata Mutton Biryani with raita—it’s my all-time favorite.

My most cherished food memory comes from my childhood in Dehradun, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. After lunch during the winter months, we would enjoy a special salad on our rooftop, basking in the warm sun. This salad featured pomelo, and its unique flavor was enhanced by a traditional green chili salt called pisyun loon. My grandmother would prepare this salt on a sil batta (a grinding stone), blending green chilies, coriander leaves, roasted cumin, green garlic leaves, and salt. 

The resulting pisyun loon was then sprinkled over the picked pomelo flesh with some granulated sugar. We would use the pomelo’s hollowed-out rind as individual plates, creating a truly memorable and rustic experience. I experienced a true 'Ratatouille moment' at Central restaurant in Lima. One particular dish evoked the exact taste of my mother’s chutney—a flavor deeply rooted in my childhood.

Fine dining is an exquisite experience where the harmony of exceptional food and attentive service creates a symphony that resonates with the soul. It is a space where each dish is not merely a meal but a narrative, woven from the chef's journey and nostalgic memories, inviting diners to savor stories alongside flavors. 

This culinary artistry transcends the traditional five senses, engaging the sixth sense—the emotional connection with the diners. By delivering outstanding food quality and a service that is both professional and approachable, fine dining becomes a joyous celebration, ensuring that every guest feels embraced and valued. In this environment, every element comes together to create a memorable experience that touches the heart.

Our goal and vision is to build restaurants where my expertise translates into a consistently outstanding Indian dining experience. We meticulously craft dishes that respect the authenticity of Indian flavors, while simultaneously exploring innovative culinary techniques. 

The goal is to provide a multi-sensory journey for our guests, complemented by warm and professional service. My chef-driven approach includes educating diners about the lesser-known ingredients and cultural significance of Indian cuisine.

Noma and Alchemist.

My philosophy? It’s simple: honor the roots, elevate the experience. I spent 100 days traversing the 29 states of India—not as a tourist, but as a student, a seeker. I went deep, into the tucked-away corners, the kitchens where grandmothers still hold secrets passed down through generations. I learned from home cooks and legendary chefs, unearthing recipes that time had almost forgotten. 

India is an ancient land, a treasure trove of culinary wisdom. We’ve lost so much to the rush of modern life, but these dishes and ingredients—they’re not just about taste. They’re about connection to nature, about well-being, about legacy. And I brought that legacy back with me. I sourced spices and ingredients directly from the families and plantations that have used them for generations, because authenticity matters. It’s not just about flavor—it’s about integrity. 

But here’s the thing: tradition doesn’t mean stagnation. I take these timeless recipes and ancient techniques and breathe new life into them. I use my skill, my creativity, my imagination to present them in a way that’s stunning, modern, and worthy of the global stage. Indian cuisine deserves its place among the best, and I’m here to make sure it gets it. 

My menus—both à la carte and tasting—are designed to engage all your senses. They’re woven with stories, with textures, with unexpected presentations. It’s a neoteric approach, a reimagining, but always true to the original flavors. And here’s where it gets even more personal: I change my menu with the seasons. Not just the produce, but the entire spice box. Every spice has its own nature—cooling, warming, immunity-boosting. I carefully select and blend my spices to reflect the season, ensuring that each dish is not only delicious but also in harmony with the rhythms of nature. 

This approach is deeply inspired by the philosophy of Ayurveda, an ancient science of life that emphasizes balance and well-being. I want you to experience the true spirit of India—vibrant, diverse, and utterly unforgettable. This isn’t just a meal. It’s an education, a celebration, a journey. And I’m your guide. So, let’s begin.

For me, nothing beats the comfort of kadhi chawal. It’s a simple yet incredibly satisfying meal, balancing tangy, spicy, and savory notes. The spiced yogurt and gram flour curry, served over rice, is a culinary hug—with regional variations that make it even more special.