There was a time when caviar signaled exclusivity—delicate pearls reserved for fine crystal, mother-of-pearl spoons, and Champagne flutes. Now? It’s dolloped onto everything from corn dogs to ice cream. The world’s most storied luxury ingredient has gone democratic—and dangerously trendy.
That surge is no accident. Caviar production has skyrocketed over the past 15 years, thanks in large part to China’s booming aquaculture industry, which now leads the world in caviar exports. But with wild sturgeon among the most endangered species on the planet, today’s caviar boom raises critical questions—about sustainability, transparency, labeling, and what, exactly, you're spooning onto your blini.
The only responsible way to enjoy caviar today is through sustainable sturgeon farming—ideally with zero waste practices that utilize the fish’s skin and meat, repurpose greywater, rely on renewable energy, and mitigate environmental impact. It’s a delicate ecosystem—one you deserve to understand before your next bump.
Where Your Caviar Comes From Matters
Most of the caviar sold in the U.S. today comes from China. That alone isn’t cause for concern—but it does mean you should know who’s doing it right, and who’s cutting corners.
“There are farms in China that do a great job and there are a lot of farms out there that want to create shortcuts,” says Sean Khaligh of Dorasti Caviar. The Dorasti brothers source from farms in China and Poland and clearly label their tins by origin. Khaligh often offers blind tastings to chefs and distributors “so that they aren’t influenced by preconceived ideas.”
At Regiis Ova, co-founder Shaoching Bishop is equally selective—only partnering with Kaluga Queen, the world’s largest sturgeon farm, located in Hangzhou. “I’ve never seen a farm in the world with such high standards,” she says. “If I go to a farm, I just look at the feed, oxygen levels and water temperature and I can tell if they are cutting corners.”
In the U.S., most sturgeon farms are clustered in California’s Sacramento Valley—including Tsar Nicoulai, the largest and only eco-certified producer of white sturgeon caviar in North America. The company acquired Sterling Caviar last year, further expanding its native species program. “What sets us apart is our cultivation of a native species, located just miles from our farm,” says Marai Bolourchi, co-owner and vice president of Tsar Nicoulai. “This dedication to local sourcing and production is the secret sauce behind the unique and profound flavor notes of our caviar.”
To diversify their offerings, Tsar Nicoulai also imports caviar from an eco-certified farm in Greece—specifically species like Baerii and Ossetra, which are harder to produce domestically.
Bishop, who co-founded Regiis Ova caviar alongside chef Thomas Keller, doesn’t just sell caviar—she matches it to chefs like a sommelier pairing vintages. She tastes through every tin with their preferences in mind, ensuring consistency for top-tier clients. The vast majority of Regiis Ova’s caviar goes directly to restaurants like Benu, Alinea, Addison, and Cyrus—clear proof of the trust she’s earned from the country’s most exacting kitchens.
