Carmen Angel’s guide to Medellín

“Cómida típica means classic Antioquian dishes, amazing cuisine that shares lots of flavours and preparations with Colombia’s Andean region. Top-quality ingredients and a commitment to tradition make Sancho Paisa my favorite típico spot, which opened almost 25 years ago. They serve everything such as breakfast’s sopa de costilla (rib soup), empanadas and arepas de mote as well as the emblematic bandeja paisa, tamal and calentao – a delicious revival of bean stew that’s heated up with rice and hogao – plus sancocho (meat broth) on weekends. Go for any meal of the day, always leave satisfied.”

“Towards the end of the 1800s, Colombia had a rush of immigrants from Syria, Lebanon and Palestine on the Caribbean coast. Combine this with its already-rich Middle Eastern culture from the Spanish colonisation and you’ll find this culinary culture has been well absorbed by contemporary Colombian gastronomy. Fenicia is a solid tribute to Lebanese cuisine created by a Lebanese-Colombian family. I always order a mix of around 10 small and main dishes to share with a table of friends: fatayer jeben, kibbe, magduz, sesame falafel, shanklish bit zaáttar, Mediterranean hummus, batenjen bit'zat u tun, arnavit bit'hine, arroz arabe (Arabian rice) and musaka (moussaka). Please don't skip dessert and the sweet tea!” 

“I come straight here when I need a hearty lunch or comfort food pick-me-up. The cazuela de frijoles (bean stew) is one of the most legendary in Medellín while the ajiaco, a three-potato and chicken stew complete with potato, capers and corn, is a Colombian classic and powerhouse hangover remedy when you ask for ají picante. The only other menu item is mondongo, classic beef tripe soup served with banana and rice.” 

“Devouring Café Zorba’s totally vegetarian pizza is such a nice treat after a long day or on a Sunday off. Their vegan pies with homemade cashew cheese are really tasty while the freshly oven-baked bread and hummus make for a yummy starter. Choose a red tomato or white base pie then pick toppings: my favourites are the basil pie, the chimichurri pie, and kale with almonds and lime zest. I also order the tart cucumber lemonade and spike it with some vodka or local rum. The ambience is a cool mix of locals and young foreigners looking for laid-back vibes.” 

“In the Campo Alegre vereda (rural municipality), where the East Antioquian pueblo of El Carmen de Viboral meets the countryside that used to be home to Medellín's agricultural pantry, Vero Gómez's home and kitchen greets you with a warm motherly hug. An hour’s drive up into Medellín’s eastern mountains, I love taking a break from the city to enjoy Vero's home-cooked comfort food that’s made with love, “mountain food” as she calls it. Serving out of a cosy outdoor space next to her herb and vegetable garden, Vero's menu is 100% locally sourced and is truly an ode to the traditional recipes that weave the tapestry of Antioquia’s rich culinary cultural heritage. Drinks here are tapetusa (a local sugar cane distillate), chicha (fermented fruit wines) and mead.” 

“Delicious, fresh, succulent, tasty little cheesy fried balls called buñuelos are served up from as early as 6am. Size matters and in this case, the smaller the better in order to get a larger surface area of the crusty fried outside, which is combined with a warm doughy centre. Order a dozen, share and enjoy!”

“Maria Teresa Vélez's menu is inspired by Indian cuisine and interpreted with locally sourced ingredients. Her fried spinach, curries and freshly made naan are so yummy that a further three locations have sprouted up. The Laureles storefront is the best for an extended and delicious lunch to enjoy her flavourful creations.” 

“This cosy eight-seat bar pays tribute to the simplicity and respect of Japanese cuisine, while creating a personalised experience that celebrates line-caught fish from Colombia’s Pacific and Caribbean coasts as well as products representing Colombia's rich biodiversity. The omakase menu is designed by XO restaurant’s creative nucleus, Rob Pevitts, Mateo Ríos and Sebastián Marín, and while it forms part of Grupo Carmen, it truly is my go-to spot when I get back from travelling. I love the nigiri topped with bluefin tuna dry-aged in beeswax, and trout handrolls with roe and Amazonian ant kosho.”