Chicken and mushroom vol-au-vent

Nagae began cooking as a teenager in Osaka, regularly preparing lunch and dinner for his sisters. This practice became a passion and then a potential career with his move to France, where he attended culinary school at Lyon’s Tsuji Culinary Institute and graduated as Student of The Year. Jobs in three-Michelin-star restaurants Régis et Jacques Marcon and then Le Doyen followed. Long entranced by the culinary approach of chef Joël Robuchon, his dream came true with the chance to work at Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon in Tokyo and then later—after stints at Etc in Paris and L’Osier in Tokyo—at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in New York. Then in 2019 Nagae become Chef de Cuisine under Robuchon disciple Alain Verzeroli at Shun, which quickly picked up a Michelin star. The pandemic hit soon afterwards, however, and Nagae found himself out of work as Shun was forced to close its doors. At this point, businessman and regular customer Rahul Saito invited Nagae to cook for friends and family at his home, a set-up that gradually led to the idea of creating their own restaurant in New York’s Tribeca neighborhood. Thus, L’Abeille was born.

Restaurants

The name L’Abeille, meaning ‘bee’ in French, is a reference to the chef’s childhood nickname, Mitsu, the Japanese word for ‘honey.’ And the place certainly generated a sweet buzz from the moment it opened in March 2022, rapidly proving to be a success with diners and reviewers. Within six months it was awarded a Michelin star, while the same year both Forbes and The Infatuation listed it as one of New York City’s Best New Restaurants.

The restaurant espouses the concept of ‘bistronomy,’ blending a bistro vibe with the quality of French haute cuisine, in other words fine dining in a slightly more approachable, more affordable form. The Michelin Guide has called it “A harmonious union of French cooking with Japanese sensibilities,” claiming that the influence of Nagae’s years spent working at Joël Robuchon restaurants around the world is clear to see.

Nagae and partners have also opened a smaller restaurant next door, L’Abeille à Côté, serving an abbreviated version of the tasting menu offered by its larger and more formal sibling.

Recipes and dishes

Nagae’s cuisine combines his Japanese heritage with his classical French training and his desire to innovate. L'Abeille’s tasting menu, which is accompanied by an outstanding wine list, changes with the seasons, blending French cuisine with Asian and other elements. The variations are partly a reflection of his belief that NYC diners are more open than most to diverse flavor profiles, and partly a result of Nagae’s desire to use fresh, local produce. His creative process begins with the ingredients available rather than with prescribed recipes.

One innovative example from L’Abeille’s menu is Nagae’s interpretation of squab, a traditional French dish. He prepares it with pigeons sourced from California rather than France, considering the meat less gamey. At the same time, he replaces the usual heavy sauce of liver and intestines with a lighter miso paste along with a chocolate and bourbon sauce inspired by Mexican mole. These changes make the overall result more palatable in terms of both taste and price.

Other dishes highlighted by the Michelin Guide include grilled trout with Champagne caviar sauce and scallion oil; and lychee mousse with strawberry and shiso. Meanwhile Nagae’s own favorite dish on the menu is grilled Japanese Spanish Mackerel, smoked clams, and XO sauce.