The first bite is a revelation. The schiacciata bread cracks beneath your teeth, its olive oil-kissed surface giving way to layers of salty prosciutto, creamy stracchino, and a whisper of black truffle. It’s simple but deeply satisfying, the kind of sandwich that makes you close your eyes for a second. It feels like something you should be eating on a sun-drenched piazza in Florence—but here it is, in Los Angeles.
This isn’t an isolated moment. Over the past few years, a wave of new Italian sandwich shops has taken over the city, reshaping LA’s casual dining scene. From the highly anticipated arrival of Florence’s famed All’Antico Vinaio to the homegrown efforts of Mamie, Sì Roma, Lorenzo, and Pane Bianco, the city has embraced the art of the Italian panino with an intensity usually reserved for tacos and burgers. But why now? What’s behind this sudden surge? And how do these sandwiches differ from the Italian-American deli staples that have long been part of LA’s culinary fabric?
In Italy, sandwiches are a study in restraint. Regionality plays a crucial role—every corner of the country has its own distinct take, from the thin, crackly schiacciata of Tuscany to the pillowy tramezzini of the Veneto, crustless triangles filled with everything from tuna and egg salad to prosciutto cotto. In Rome, the panino con porchetta is the street-food king, thick slabs of herbed roast pork stuffed into rustic bread. Further north in Emilia-Romagna, piadina—griddled flatbread folded around soft cheeses and cured meats—is a regional specialty.
The Italian-American sandwich, however, tells a different story. Built on abundance, these are the sandwiches of the East Coast delis—foot-long subs, overstuffed with layers of capicola, mortadella, salami, provolone, and “the works.” The Godmother at Bay Cities, LA’s most famous Italian deli sandwich, is a prime example: bold, brash, and piled high, a far cry from the simplicity of its Italian cousins. Both traditions have their place, but the recent boom in LA isn’t about Italian-American excess—it’s about authenticity, craftsmanship, and a return to the roots of the Italian panino.