Enrique Olvera is set to transform US taco culture

Pioneering Mexican chef Enrique Olvera has returned to New York City with a new, fast-casual project to elevate the American taco experience.

After almost 10 years since his groundbreaking New York City debut with Cosme, a restaurant that reshaped local perceptions of Mexican cuisine, pioneering chef Enrique Olvera returns to the city with a new, fast-casual project to elevate the American taco experience.

Since its opening at the beginning of May in Williamsburg, Esse Taco has quickly become a sensation, bringing the vibrant taco culture of Mexico City to Brooklyn. However, with a notable distinction: the touch of Olvera, a famed chef revered in the culinary world and the mastermind behind sought-after concepts in the US, including Cosme and Atla in New York, and Damián and a more recent outpost of Atla in Los Angeles.

More than “chef signature tacos,” Olvera's main goal is to provide affordable food "that can compete with a good slice of pizza," as he explains to Fine Dining Lovers. At Esse, all tacos are around $5. The concept, drawing inspiration from the bustling taquerias found in major cities worldwide, including his hometown, prioritizes efficiency: orders are placed via touchscreen, traditional tables, and chairs are eschewed in favor of metal barrels for standing, and the menu is designed to be streamlined and straightforward.

The menu features just four tacos: the renowned pork-loin ‘al pastor,’ rib-eye steak, chicken ‘poc chuc’ (a Mayan marination technique using citrus), and smoked oyster mushrooms; all served in corn tortillas nixtamalized in the shop. Guests can "make it a gringa" by choosing a flour tortilla with chihuahua cheese. Additionally, a quesadilla and two sides—guacamole with totopos and a trio of salsas, also served with totopos—complete the food offering. There's just one option for dessert: a corn husk ice cream sundae inspired by Cosme's renowned corn husk meringue.

"There's nothing extraordinary beyond a traditional taqueria, but we were very meticulous about doing something well, concentrating on the fundamentals. We emphasize ensuring that the meat does not contain hormones, that it is well raised, and that the corn is of good origin," Olvera explains.

They marinate and grill all the meats for the tacos, then cut them into thin, neat slices using an electric deli slicer. According to the chef, this method is an easier way to serve and maintain quality standards, something he and his team tested for months in a pop-up taqueria they opened in Mexico City after the pandemic. "We also had extra time to improve processes before opening our doors in New York," he adds.

The move has been in the works for a few years. "We've wanted to open something more casual in the city for a long time, and I think we've found the perfect timing," says Olvera, whose group, Casamata, boasts a dozen businesses in Mexico, ranging from fine-dining restaurants like the pioneering Pujol to Ticuchi, an agave-based spirits’ bar.

"Tacos have always been trendy, but they're experiencing a craze, especially in the United States," he says. "Initially, it was driven by many Mexican immigrants who came to live in the country. But now, after the pandemic, many Americans have decided to move to Mexico City, immersing themselves in the taco culture of the city and then bringing that enthusiasm back to American metropolises like New York.”

Olvera's passion for tacos led him to create a "taco omakase" experience at Pujol, his flagship restaurant in Mexico City, complete with a dedicated counter for guests to delve deeper into the culture of the dish. Tortillas are filled with unique creations like pineapple butter (featured in Esse's al pastor taco) and his renowned aged mole. "More than just a recipe, the taco reflects Mexican food culture, shedding light on our way of eating," he explains.

With Esse, Olvera aims to bring this cultural experience to New York, explicitly choosing Brooklyn because the neighborhood embodies the democratization that tacos represent: men in suits, freelancers, teenagers, and families alike. "We selected Williamsburg for its diversity. In Manhattan, neighborhoods are often defined by specific demographics. Here, we welcome all kinds of people."

Olvera anticipates expanding beyond the Bedford Avenue location if all goes according to plan. Over the next few years, he intends to open "between four and five new branches," all within New York. "The taqueria concept is the first of our projects that we believe can be replicated elsewhere. While we typically focus on unique endeavors, this model allows us to consider expansion for the first time," he notes.

However, this expansion will be exclusive to New York. "We have no intentions of opening taquerias in Mexico City or Los Angeles, let alone other cities. For now, our focus is solely on New York," he confirms. Those craving Olvera-style tacos will need to plan a trip to the city.