A food and wine lovers guide to Prince Edward County, Ontario

Beaches, wineries, art, heritage hotels and wonderful food: Prince Edward County (PEC), a two-hour drive from Toronto, has turned into a top Canadian destination, especially for city folk seeking a weekend escape – and savvy gourmets and wine lovers looking for exceptional dining and drinking experiences.

Lovingly referred to as “The County,” PEC’s location on the 800km shores of Lake Ontario provides a unique terroir for grape growing. The limestone, shale and clay soil here are ideal for producing pinot gris, Chardonnay and Grüner, light pinot noir reds and some Burgundy-inspired varieties. Many vintners have a commitment to organic, pesticide-free growing, and the often herby, well-balanced wines produced here provide ideal summer sipping, especially when there’s a view of the lake to be had.

Summer is a great time to visit Canada, and there’s nothing like a winery tour in The County (and a barefoot walk along the dunes and crystal waters at Sandbanks Provincial Park). But autumn and winter are great for visiting The County, too, for those who want to experience a classic cozy Canadian country landscape. The late autumn Countylicious festival, timed with the last harvest and before the snow hits is a chance to catch some brilliant autumn colours, the annual Firelight Lantern Festival and some very good food indeed.

Here are the best recommendations for a tasty tour of Prince Edward County, Ontario.

Stella’s Eatery

^{Julia Pittman}

The indigenous Anishnaabeg, Wendat and Haudenosaunee peoples, among others, were the original inhabitants of the region now called Prince Edward County. Chef Leah Marshall Hannon named Stella’s Eatery after her great-grandmother, Stella Pamajewon Marshall, who foraged, hunted, and respected the bounty of the land her restaurant now stands on. This indigenous, woman-owned, self-described comfort food restaurant has a weekly changing menu, often featuring traditional bannock and wild rice along with local pickerel. The wine list leans towards the funky, and don’t miss Chef Leah’s gnocchi if they’re on the menu.

Darlings

^{@visitthecounty}

Darlings is one of Bloomfield’s newest additions. The printed menu talks about tiny stuffed olives and a capicola starter with Manchego, thin-crust pizzas and pasta with a vodka sauce, but there’s so much more that the big-city chefs have brought to The County. Hand-stretched mozzarella, ravioli with yellowfin tuna speckled with bottarga, shishito with potatoes, beef tartare with crisps, burrata with playful accompaniments like grapes, pistachio, and lemon oil, ever-changing salads, and – sugar pie. All with a retro, often country, soundtrack.

The Royal Hotel

^{Graydon Herriott}

We’re not the first to call Picton’s The Royal Hotel the Grande Dame of The County. This top-end spot features rooms named after apple and pear varieties (who wouldn’t want to stay in a room called the Royal Gala?) and four dining rooms famous for produce coming from the hotel’s own organic farm. Chef Albert Ponzo’s philosophy is all about being seasonal and approachable; there’s a fancy element, but Chef’s family-friendly, wood-fired pizzas are often the talk of the town, too.

Bocado

Right across the street from The Royal, Bocado takes a step away from local fare (save for some beer and wine on their tasteful list), steering patrons to Spain with their tapas, cheeses, and ‘pan con’ on milled sourdough. Enjoy a leisurely tartar de carne and patatas bravas while you wait for a spectacular paella. Reservations are essential for this one.

Bloomfield Public House

Bloomfield Public House’s bottle shop, bar, and kitchen were moved from previous motel digs to a renovated classic small-town bank building, bringing a loyal clientele right along. And with good reason: super local offerings, including beer from nearby breweries, wine, spirits, baked goods, and fried chicken in the summer are only a few of the draws, which they describe as “good food and boozy drinks.”

Flame + Smith

Fans of wood-fired food will adore Flame + Smith’s gracious space and generous menu with char at the heart of it. From steak to seabass to roasted aubergine, Flame + Smith celebrates the artistry behind smithing of all kinds, hearkening to the true Dutch meaning of the word smid: artisans who have mastered their trade. “We are all Smiths,” they say, celebrating the masons, blacksmiths, chefs and servers who created the restaurant and keep the place running.

Bermuda PEC

Open, inclusive Bermuda PEC was one of the first businesses in The County to be Rainbow Registered – a special accreditation certifying that 2SLGBTQl+ patrons are “safe, welcome, and accepted.” The food is welcoming, too, with an island-inspired Mexican-leaning menu. Think aguachile, carnitas, tacos, and green chilli cheese fries amid a relaxed atmosphere.

Lighthall Winery

Lighthall Winery is known for two things: wine and cheese. Their Chardonnays, pinot noir and merlot, plus a few cabernets – franc and merlot – pair nicely with sheep’s cheeses made on site, all available for purchase at the winery. Tastings happen throughout the day on a first-come, first-served basis. Fully wheelchair accessible, Lighthall offers flights with cheese, waives tasting fees for every six bottles purchased, and has an outdoor tasting bar for the summer months.

Hinterland

Sparkling wine is Hinterland’s speciality, with their bubbly gamay noir, named Ancestral Rosé, one of a about a dozen varieties that have turned into real crowd-pleasers. Visits to the vineyard are encouraged, with tasting flight options including methode- champenoise, charmant (Prosecco) method, and sparkling rosés. In collaboration with Québec vintner David McMillan (one of the founders of Montreal’s renowned Joe Beef), there’s also a natural wine tasting for their L’Imparfait line of maceration experiments.