Luxury fruit: the rise of an old trend

A recent news story about an extremely rare Rubyglow pineapple costing $400 had people taken aback at the seemingly excessive trend for luxury fruit. It does point to a growing trend, particularly in the US and China, however it’s hardly a new one.

The Rubyglow pineapple, genetically engineered by Fresh Del Monte, was initially unveiled in China to coincide with the Lunar New Year with limited numbers later released to the US market. This year will see 5,000 available in the US, with a possible 3,000 next year. It is the third release from the fruit giant, the first being Precious Honeyglow, a small “single serving” fruit, and then the Pinkglow, with a surprisingly pink flesh.

The fruit is marketed as the “most exclusive and high-end pineapple, Available in only a select few retailers, it has been referred to as an ‘ultrapremium luxury designer fruit.’” The fruit is sold without its head and leaves and set in a presentation case, more reminiscent of a Fabergé egg than a store-bought pineapple. It is the result of 15 years of research; grown in Costa Rica it is a cross between a traditional pineapple and a morada pineapple.

But what is behind the growing trend in luxury fruit? Well, we live in a time of the ostentatious display of wealth. When influencers rent private jets for photoshoots or celebrities borrow dresses for red carpet photo ops, it’s hardly surprising that some will choose food as a signifier of social status and wealth. This is nothing new.

Food is more and more a cultural reference that conveys wealth and affluence. Even the concepts of sustainability and ethical food have been co-opted into this lexicon of social hierarchy.

We are familiar and comfortable with the idea of high-end wagyu beef or rare beluga caviar, but these ingredients, while having unique and desirable innate properties, are considered cultural identifiers by social consensus. We agree that these are luxury items, therefore they are. This is how value works.

The idea of luxury fruit though, is not new. If anything, the ubiquitousness of tropical fruit in every corner store in every country of the world is the surprising thing. Not so long ago, even oranges and lemons were considered rare and expensive luxuries. As recently as the 19th century, pineapples were considered so exclusive that they were rarely eaten in Europe. Instead, they became symbols of wealth and were rented to the bourgeoisie to display as centrepieces at dinner parties. There were even pineapple agents who managed the rental and handling of the fruit. Before that the pineapple was a symbol of affluence, but also of welcome and hospitality. Pineapple motifs can be seen in architecture, textiles, ceramics, and furniture from the height of the Rococo period, about 1745-1770.

In recent years the luxury fruit trend has risen again. Consumers seemingly can’t get enough of exclusive fruits like Honeycrisp apples, Cotton Candy grapes, Sumo Citrus, and vertically grown Japanese strawberries. The Rubyglow pineapple represents a high point in this trend, but also a reference to a past when the world was smaller and our food choices more limited. With a food system in crisis and climate change threatening harvests around the world, we can expect to see unexpected trends in the rise of once commonplace foodstuffs to status symbols.