Mexico City vibrates on a different frequency than any other destination; the city that rarely sleeps is packed with locals and a constant flow of people passing through, kept awake by the bright lights of late-night taquerias and the sound of moving mariachi bands. Secrets abound for those who look hard enough; don’t be surprised if an unassuming door leads into a mid-century church, or if a hole-in-the-wall serves you the tastiest morsel of your trip. However long your visit, these are things you shouldn’t miss.
All photos: iStock
The best way to understand Mexico City is through its food. You can find some of the city’s most delicious bites in the most unassuming places, so pull up a plastic stool or take a seat on the curb and get stuck in. In Centro Storico, Los Cocuyos has been serving nose-to-tail tacos for half a century. A newer (but no less delicious) addition to the taco scene is Orinoco, who have a few locations throughout the city. Other spots to mark your map with include Tacos el Paisa, El Turix, Taqueria El Greco, Tacos Ruben's, Carnitas Parque Luna and Los 3 Reyes. If you want to hit all the top spots without the legwork, book a food tour designed for people who hate tours with Club Tengo Hambre, The Curious Mexican and Gaby Renterian, a food writer who normally works via Four Seasons but takes bookings via her Instagram of the same name.
Good food followed by sobremesa
Sobremesa refers to the lengthy period of chatting, mezcal in hand, after a meal, and there are plenty of brilliant restaurants in which to do so. Nowhere does traditional tacos better than roadside taquerias, but CDMX is packed with contemporary restaurants doing interesting things that you won't find on the streets. Before your trip, book a table at Contramar (and order the infamous tuna tostadas and grilled snapper), Rosetta (helmed by Elena Reygadas, the World’s Best Female Chef 2023), Maximo Bistrot (French plates made with Mexican produce), and Pujol, of course. Other, more casual favourites include Expendio de Maiz, where the chef sends over plates and mezcal top-ups until you’re full, and Masala y Maiz, a restaurant blending flavours of Mexico and India.
Go to San Angel for Frida Kahlo’s studio and margaritas
The upscale neighbourhood of San Angel shows an entirely different side to the city with its wide roads, colossal colonial houses and ivy-clad walls; it’s also home to Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s studio. Everyone flocks to the better-known Casa Azul for a slice of Frida, but the studio offers an intimate insight into their life, love and work, without the hoards. Afterwards, head next door to San Angel Inn, an institution reminiscent of Mexico City’s past, where well-dressed waiters serve margaritas in tiny silver carafes which sit on ice, poised for top-ups. They also serve the ultimate Caesar salad, which is dressed at your table, often to a soundtrack of live Mariachi.
Hop between galleries
Hopping between Mexico City’s many galleries and museums is the perfect way to fill the gaps between food. Museo Jumex has one of Latin America's largest private contemporary art collections, housed in an equally impressive building designed by David Chipperfield. For regional art and artefacts head to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, and to escape the buzz of the city make your way to the sculpture garden at the Museo Universitario Arte Contemporaneo. No trip to CDMX is complete without visiting Casa Luis Barragan, the residency and studio of the most prominent figure in modern Mexican architecture.
Hit the markets
Whether it’s food, flowers or thrift, Mexico City does markets well. There’s no better way to appreciate the sheer abundance of local produce on offer than at one of the city’s many food markets; where the creamiest avocados tower against dragon fruits and papayas the size of a small person. While sprawling markets like Mercado de la Merced have aisle upon aisle of stalls to explore, the smaller neighbourhood markets like Mercado Medellin and Mercado Juarez are best for getting a taste of local life. If it’s clothes or furniture you’re after, head to La Lagunilla on a Sunday morning. For unparalleled Instagram content, spend a morning at Mercado de Jamaica, the city’s principal flower market.
Experience Xochimilco with Arca Tierra
At the southernmost point of the city, you’ll find Xochimilco, the remnants of a network of canals and artificial islands built by the Aztecs. Nowadays, the waterways are jammed with brightly coloured party boats with buskers hopping between them, but beyond the raucousness, Arca Tierra is restoring the land to its former use and cultivating produce for some of the city’s best restaurants. The best way to experience Xochimilco is on an Arca Tierra sunrise tour, navigating the canals in a trajinera just as the sun appears between the volcanoes on the horizon and feasting on breakfast prepared using produce from the surrounding farmland.
Do a cantina crawl
Cantinas are like a window into Mexico’s past. Throughout history they’ve been a place for locals (only men by law until 1988) to get together, sip (never shot) mezcal, do business and celebrate, from morning through to night. The atmosphere is always lively, the drinks are always strong, and the salty peanuts laced with chilli are always on the house. Spend an evening leading your own cantina crawl Downtown, stopping at La Faena, Cantina Tio Pepe, and El Gallo de Oro.
