New York’s L’Abeille (which means ‘bee’ in French) is a prime example of the ‘bistronomy’ trend, in other words it’s a restaurant that combines bistro culture with the quality and techniques of gastronomy.

The heart of L'Abeille

Located in NYC’s Tribeca district, this 48-seat restaurant was opened in 2022 by Japanese-born, French-trained chef Mitsunobu Nagae along with his business partner Rahul Saito. While Nagae’s cooking is rooted in the classic French tradition —he is an alumnus of Joël Robuchon, having worked for the highly influential chef in both Tokyo and New York—he also takes inspiration from his Japanese heritage, from the cultures of his diverse team, and above all from the seasons, sourcing fresh produce locally where possible. L’Abeille is best known for its tasting menu, but the restaurant also offers a selection of à la carte dishes, as well as an award-winning wine and cocktail program.

Perched on the corner of a tranquil cobbled street in upmarket Tribeca, L’Abeille boasts a long, elegant dining room embellished by a stylish marble bar that looks onto its open kitchen. The space is illuminated by French windows and beautiful brass lighting fixtures. Its seats are cushioned with plush green velvet, and its tables are set with stunning Christofle cutlery. Every course is served on a different plate or bowl, each one designed to highlight and enhance the essence of the dish in question. It is this attention to detail, a legacy of Nagae’s years in Robuchon restaurants around the world, that has helped secure L'Abeille’s reputation for providing a true fine-dining experience in a bistro setting.

Nagae’s nickname, Mitsu, means ‘honey’ in Japanese—hence the name of the restaurant. When Mitsu first started cooking as a teenager, it was out of necessity: growing up in a single-parent household, he would regularly prepare lunch and dinner for his sisters. But this duty soon became a passion, one that would take him to France, birthplace of his hero Joël Robuchon, where he graduated as Student of The Year from Lyon’s Tsuji Culinary Institute. This status earned Nagae the opportunity to go straight to a job at three-Michelin-starred restaurant Régis et Jacques Marcon. His impressive career progressed with stints in some of the world’s top restaurants, including Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon in Tokyo, where he was mentored by chefs Alain Verzeroli, Christophe Bellanca, and Yuichiro Watanabe. After that, Nagae continued to hone his craft at Michelin-starred restaurants like Etc in Paris, L’Osier in Tokyo, and L’atelier Joël Robuchon in New York, before being taken on by Verzeroli at Shun in New York. Shun had time to earn a Michelin star before being forced to close its doors during the pandemic. It was Shun’s closure that led Nagae first into a private cooking arrangement for businessman and regular customer Saito and later into discussions that would culminate with them co-founding L’Abeille, a first venture into restaurant ownership for both parties.

Their project turned out to be an almost instant success. L’Abeille was awarded its first Michelin star just months after opening in 2022 and was named one of New York City’s Best New Restaurants in both Forbes and The Infatuation the same year.

The Chef

Nagae began cooking as a teenager in Osaka, regularly preparing lunch and dinner for his sisters. This practice became a passion and then a potential career with his move to France, where he attended culinary school at Lyon’s Tsuji Culinary Institute and graduated as Student of The Year. Jobs in three-Michelin-star restaurants Régis et Jacques Marcon and then Le Doyen followed. Long entranced by the culinary approach of chef Joël Robuchon, his dream came true with the chance to work at Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon in Tokyo and then later—after stints at Etc in Paris and L’Osier in Tokyo—at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in New York. Then in 2019 Nagae become Chef de Cuisine under Robuchon disciple Alain Verzeroli at Shun, which quickly picked up a Michelin star. The pandemic hit soon afterwards, however, and Nagae found himself out of work as Shun was forced to close its doors. At this point, businessman and regular customer Rahul Saito invited Nagae to cook for friends and family at his home, a set-up that gradually led to the idea of creating their own restaurant in New York’s Tribeca neighborhood. Thus, L’Abeille was born.

Restaurants

The name L’Abeille, meaning ‘bee’ in French, is a reference to the chef’s childhood nickname, Mitsu, the Japanese word for ‘honey.’ And the place certainly generated a sweet buzz from the moment it opened in March 2022, rapidly proving to be a success with diners and reviewers. Within six months it was awarded a Michelin star, while the same year both Forbes and The Infatuation listed it as one of New York City’s Best New Restaurants.

The restaurant espouses the concept of ‘bistronomy,’ blending a bistro vibe with the quality of French haute cuisine, in other words fine dining in a slightly more approachable, more affordable form. The Michelin Guide has called it “A harmonious union of French cooking with Japanese sensibilities,” claiming that the influence of Nagae’s years spent working at Joël Robuchon restaurants around the world is clear to see.

Nagae and partners have also opened a smaller restaurant next door, L’Abeille à Côté, serving an abbreviated version of the tasting menu offered by its larger and more formal sibling.

Recipes and dishes

Nagae’s cuisine combines his Japanese heritage with his classical French training and his desire to innovate. L'Abeille’s tasting menu, which is accompanied by an outstanding wine list, changes with the seasons, blending French cuisine with Asian and other elements. The variations are partly a reflection of his belief that NYC diners are more open than most to diverse flavor profiles, and partly a result of Nagae’s desire to use fresh, local produce. His creative process begins with the ingredients available rather than with prescribed recipes.

One innovative example from L’Abeille’s menu is Nagae’s interpretation of squab, a traditional French dish. He prepares it with pigeons sourced from California rather than France, considering the meat less gamey. At the same time, he replaces the usual heavy sauce of liver and intestines with a lighter miso paste along with a chocolate and bourbon sauce inspired by Mexican mole. These changes make the overall result more palatable in terms of both taste and price.

Other dishes highlighted by the Michelin Guide include grilled trout with Champagne caviar sauce and scallion oil; and lychee mousse with strawberry and shiso. Meanwhile Nagae’s own favorite dish on the menu is grilled Japanese Spanish Mackerel, smoked clams, and XO sauce.

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