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Food Spotlight: Desert Truffles, Manna from Heaven

FDL
By
Fine Dining Lovers
Editorial Staff

The desert truffle is found in East and North Africa and the Middle East, from Morocco to the UAE. They are highly prized but much cheaper than European truffles.

The desert truffle is traditionally found in souks or markets from January until April. They grow in the deserts of North Africa and the Middle east, and depend on rainfall in order to grow. They are a type of edible hypogeous fungi, a subterranean ascomycete fungus that grows entirely underground. The desert truffle enjoys a symbiotic relationship with the roots of the helianthemum, or sunrose.

What is a Desert Truffle?

The white desert truffle, or trimania nivea, is called ‘zubaidi’ in Arabic, while the name ‘fagaa’ is given to all desert truffles in the countries of the Persian Gulf. In Morocco, they are known as ‘terfez’.

Desert truffles have a much more comprehensively recorded history than their European counterparts, and they were probably traded by Ancient Greeks and Romans. “Keep your grain, O Libya! unyoke your oxen if only you send truffles!” wrote the Roman poet Juvenal. It is thought too that the desert truffle may also be the Israelites' manna from heaven. The medieval Arab traveller Ibn Battuta wrote about the truffles being served in feasts.

Desert truffles are traditionally important in the culture of the Bedouin of the western Arab peninsula and North Africa. Truffles are symbolic as being bestowed by Allah and are often served to guests by the royals of Saudi Arabia. Traditionally, the desert rains and thunderstorms bring the truffles, and lightning is thought to activate the nitrogen compounds in the rain, which then cause the truffles to grow underground.

What do Desert Truffles Look and Taste Like?

Unlike their European cousins, the desert truffle is visible with the eye. As they mature, they crack the ground, so an expert can spot them. For this reason, they are not harvested with the use of dogs or pigs. They are bigger than European truffles, although they are less pungent, with a more delicate flavour. The taste is earthy and slightly musty. Their colour is white, turning beige once in contact with the air. They have a similar appearance to a potato, and are spongy and soft.

How Much do Desert Truffles Cost?

Unlike the Alba white truffle, for example, which can fetch very high prices at auction, the white desert truffle usually sells for about €40 per kilo. Prices can vary greatly depending on the season and scarcity. In very dry years when there is no rain, the price may rise to about €200 per kilo.

In recent years, desert truffles from North Africa and the Middle East have been passed off as counterfeit Italian white truffles. If they are buried in the ground with the more pungent, native Italian truffles (tuber magnatum) they will assume the aroma of their European cousins.

Are Desert Truffles Good For You?

The desert truffle is full of protein and packed with antioxidants, making it a valuable supplement in the Bedouin diet. According to tradition, the desert truffle is considered very good for the eyes and for having an aphrodisiac effect, although science does not support this.

How Do You Cook Desert Truffles?

Some chefs compare the desert truffle to tofu, with its delicate flavour, and use it as a substitute for meat in some classic Arabic dishes.

Traditionally, the desert truffle is cooked in stews with meat, and served with rice. Bedouin tribes usually roast them over hot coals in the desert. The desert truffle appears more and more in modern Arabic cuisine and you can find them in many fine-dining restaurants.

They are often treated in much the same way as European truffles – grated over salads or egg dishes. They also fare a lot better when cooked, and because of their larger dimensions, cheaper cost and more subtle flavour, they are a versatile ingredient that can be prepared in many ways, especially frying or grilling.

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