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Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa broke down in tears the moment the news registered that his Den in Tokyo had been named Asia's Best Restaurant in the tenth edition of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 - an achievement he called the “greatest honour” of his career so far. We caught up with Japan’s man of the moment to find out more about his team-driven approach, his lighthearted take on fine dining, and his future expansion plans.
It was a historical occasion for the Tokyo-born chef and his homeland - the first time a Japanese restaurant had been named 'best restaurant' in the region since Narisawa's win at the inaugural Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013, almost a decade ago. “I’m very happy and feel extremely grateful to all of our supporters. I hope that this will make more people want to visit Japan,” said the newly-crowned Hasegawa, reflecting on a list that includes eleven restaurants in Japan this year.
This year's awards ceremony featured in-person events held in Bangkok, Tokyo and Macau, as well as by livestream. Noting the impact of the pandemic, Hasegawa acknowledged a lot of restaurants that closed during the lockdowns in what he said was an incredibly difficult period. Yet he was equally optimistic for a revival of his industry, particularly given Japan's presence on this year’s list. “I think that, post-pandemic, the idea of being able to dine out at all will feel more precious than ever before for both restaurants and diners,” he said.
Despite his playful approach to his cuisine, Hasegawa has a been a consistently serious contender on Japan's exacting fine-dining scene, in what is the second most Michelin-starred country in the world after France. He opened his Den restaurant in 2007, first debuting on Asia’s 50 Best list at no.37 in 2016, when Den moved to a larger location, soon catapulting to the top of the list in 2018, where he has remained a top-three contender ever since.
Usually photographed with the restaurant's mascot and star Chihuahua, Pucci Jr, Hasegawa and his team are known for their warm family approach to hospitality, delivering modern kaiseki cuisine with finesse and a hint of irony, designed to make people smile. From an early age, Hasegawa was inspired by the food of his Geisha mother, and today he puts people at the heart of his cuisine. "To think about the person I’m cooking for while making food is the most important thing I learned from her," he said.
Emi Hasegawa, Zaiyu's wife, manages Den's front-of-house, and puts guests at ease (Zaiyu once joked that people come to see her and the dog, over him). The team offers a thoughtful and deeply personal service all the way, and was recognised with the Art of Hospitality Award at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019.
“I consider the entire team my family,” said Hasegawa. “It’s wonderful to be able to work with people I feel so close to everyday.” The team eat a daily family-style staff meal together, known as 'makanai', where they share their ups and downs with one another. “This really helps us bond as a team,” he said.
The likable chef, who was once voted 'Chefs’ Choice' by his peers, is always happy to give his sidekick, Pucci jr, the limelight, and doesn’t take life too seriously, much like his approach to food. Fun and playfulness find their way into most of Hasegawa’s dishes, where he draws his creativity from those around him. “I am often inspired by my customers and chef friends from around the world. I also get a lot of creative stimulation when I travel abroad - it’s not possible if you’re all alone.”
Favourite signature dishes at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant include the twenty-ingredient Den salad, with ingredients sourced from Hasegawa's sister’s garden, completed by his trademark smiley-face emoji carrot and even a sprinkling of ants.
©Sergio Coimbra
The ‘Dentucky’ Fried Chicken is another menu stalwart. Fried chicken wings in a crispy batter with steamed mochi rice and other seasonal ingredients are served in a customised takeout box with the chef's smiling face in print.
With his newly opened Denkushiflori restaurant up and running, in collaboration with chef Hiroyasu Kawate of Florilège, he’s also looking to expand overseas, and is already in talks abroad. “Denkushiflori is a collaborative effort. We’d like to do it not only in Tokyo but also around the world. We are already in talks with partners abroad about our overseas expansion. So stay tuned."
Who better than Hasegawa to hold the torch for the future of Japan's cuisine, inject fun into the future of fine dining, and bring a smile to the industry once again?
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