Huitlacoche is a Mexican delicacy sold everywhere in the country, including by street vendors, and at open-air markets and Michelin-starred restaurants. As a result of its seasonality and short harvesting period, fresh huitlacoche is a prized find for Mexican consumers and a joyous event for corn farmers throughout the country. In recent years, huitlacoche has gained acceptance in the US due to AN influx of culinary awareness.
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Huitlacoche, also known as ‘corn smut’ in English, is a sporous pathogenic fungus called ustilago maydis that feeds off corn before its ears fully develop. The contagion is usually brought forth by annual rainy seasons and results in bulbous, blue-black growths that deform maise kernels.
The history of huitlacoche
Huitlacoche derives from Nahuatl, a language of the Aztecs, which is still spoken in central Mexico. As Aztec farmers discovered blue-black spores overtaking their corn, they did not worry. They rejoiced. It was huitlacoche, which bestows a rich, mushroom-like flavour and makes for an excellent quesadilla filling.
Native American tribes such as the Hopi and Zuni have also worked with huitlacoche for centuries, in ceremonial, culinary and medicinal contexts. Among the former, the fungus was known as 'nanha' and among the latter, it was held in such high esteem that it was said to symbolise the 'generation of life'.
Huitlacoche offers more protein than regular corn and is a source of lysine, an essential amino acid not found in normal corn kernels.
What does huitlacoche taste like?
Huitlacoche has an intense earthy flavour, a nutty, mushroomy taste that makes it distinctly fungal. Its texture is a soft chew formed from the corn's soluble fibres when cooked.
How do you cook huitlacoche?
Since huitlacoche is technically a vegetable, you can eat it raw. And since it's a soft fungus, you don't have to chop, puree or shred it.
The culinary applications are numerous; the smoky, earthy flavour compliments fats in cheese and meats like chorizo. Inky and flavourful, it enhances tacos, tamales and omelettes when sautéed with onions, epazote and chillies. Most commonly, it is folded into a quesadilla with melted cheese and topped with salsas.
To cook huitlacoche kernels, you will need to do some light preparation. Remove the husk and any stray hairs from the corn cob. Holding the kernels upright on their stem side, cut them off, working from top to bottom, with a sharp knife. Add the huitlacoche to your favourite Mexican recipes after sautéing it with aromatics like onion, garlic and chile peppers. Salt the delicacy and serve it as a side dish.
Where can you get huitlacoche?
Huitlacoche is sold fresh at farmers' markets in Mexico. Outside Mexico, it’s harder to come by but is easier to find in cans if you know where to look. Mexican speciality food stores are a good bet or tins and jars can be bought online.
How do you store huitlacoche?
Just like mushrooms, huitlacoche can be stored in the fridge. However, it doesn't have a long shelf life, so use it as soon as possible. If you open a can or jar, you can keep it in the fridge for weeks after it has been opened. Canned, frozen, and jarred foods last longer.
This article was updated on 31/03/2023.
