Rediscovering the meaning of the countryside: a guide to Monferrato

Monferrato is a succession of rolling hills with villages perched on top, among rows of vines, with majestic castles that appear on the horizon: a northern Italian territory waiting to be discovered. 

A geographical region vital to the history of Italian wine, between the Piedmontese provinces of Asti and Alessandria, among woods and hazelnut groves, it has preserved its wild nature, thanks to an intelligent and respectful interaction between humans and landscape. In 2014, it was added, with Langhe and Roero, to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

Now, a new development is allowing the Gran Monferrato area (Acqui Terme, Casale Monferrato and Ovada) to emerge as a destination of note, which together with Alto Piedmont has obtained the recognition of European City of Wine 2024, a title which in rotation rewards the best producers of an Italian territory, alternating with other wine-growing cities in Portugal and Spain.  

New and interesting projects are appearing on the scene, animating the Monferrato area and contributing to the renaissance of local food and wine. Here are nectars that leave their mark, but also truffles, typical products and interesting places to try, which stand up against those of the more famous Langhe. Discover them with our guide to Monferrato. 

Regional wine shop of Ovada and Monferrato 

_{Photo: author's own}

Alto Monferrato embraces the province of Alessandria and extends southwards, to the border with the Liguria region. From Dolcetto di Ovada DOC to Brachetto d'Acqui and Ovada DOCG, the local wines are all worth trying. These great red wines are perfect with agnolotti (the typical local fresh pasta), but also with cheeses and red meats. There is no shortage of famous wines that embrace the provinces of Asti and Alessandria such as Barbera del Monferrato DOC, Barbera d'Asti DOCG, but also Ruchè. They can be tasted at the Enoteca of Ovada and Monferrato, the perfect place for 360-degree tastings, but also to discover unusual combinations, such as those offered by FasSushi, the internal restaurant, specialising in a ‘Piedmontese sushi,’ based on local fassona meat. 

_{Ovadesotti. Photo: author's own}

Those who want to try tradition at the table, however, can go to the Da Pietro restaurant, in the historic centre of Ovada. Here you can taste the ovadesotti (pasta with Dolcetto di Ovada) filled with goat's ricotta and fassona sausage from the Primo di Lerma Macelleria, a local institution. There is no shortage of classic agnolotti, seasoned with ragù, butter and sage, or with a typical Genoese meat sauce, reflecting the Ligurian influence, which is very strong here. 

Cremolino medieval village and Nordelaia 

_{Panoramic view of Cremolino. Courtesy of Nordelaia} 

An essential stop-off nearby is Cremolino: the historic centre is a characteristic medieval village, dominated by the imposing Malaspina Castle, once home to a family that ruled the area until 1450. A hilly area where your gaze is lost among vineyards and cellars is where new projects linked to wine culture and gastronomy are flourishing. 

_{Courtesy of Nordelaia} 

A good example of this is Nordelaia, a charming hotel in a panoramic position, from which to admire the gentle, undulating profiles of the area. Surrounded by five hectares of vineyards, creating an atmosphere of true peace, it’s in a completely renovated 19th-century farmhouse, which includes 12 contemporary suites, with a spa, swimming pool, and gardens. Next door is a building dedicated to catering, in all its forms: three floors with large windows and panoramic terraces, with a fine-dining restaurant called Lorto, a bistro serving traditional cuisine and a lounge bar, all focused on circular economy. At the helm of Lorto is young British Executive Chef Charles Pearce, who, together with chef Andrea Ribaldone, is committed to reinterpreting the flavours of the territory with fresh dishes with an international allure, reducing meat use and focusing on local vegetables and fish from nearby Liguria. 

The infernot and the Ecomuseum della Pietra da Cantoni 

_{Inside the infernot. Photo: Alexala – Alessandro Sgarit} 

The Monferrato degli infernot is a part of the UNESCO ‘Wine Landscapes of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato’ site, which in 2024 will celebrate 10 years of recognition. It’s an area perhaps less well-known than others, but very important for the historical wine-growing vocation of the area. 

But what are infernot? These are small cellars dug into the rock, the so-called Pietra di Cantoni, which were used for storing wine. These ancient underground caves are found in nine municipalities of Monferrato, including Cella Monte, which hosts the Ecomuseo della Pietra da Cantoni, an ancient sandstone, limestone and fossiliferous rock: it is precisely within this type of rock that the local infernot was excavated and can still be visited. 

Castelnuovo Calcea and the Art Park La Court 

_{courtesy of Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato}

We move to the Asti area, where we are greeted by the scent of red wines such as Grignolino d'Asti DOC and Barbera d'Asti DOCG, but also of Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato (produced only in seven municipalities of the province). Art Park La Court is in the heart of the UNESCO Heritage hills, the first example of an art park among the vines, an open-air museum with installations by internationally renowned artists such as Emanuele Luzzati and Ugo Nespolo, Giancarlo Ferraris and Chris Bangle. The park, opened in 2003, turned 20 this year. 

Cocconato and the new cuisine of Cantina Nicola 

_{L'albese di filetto marinato. Photo courtesy of Cantina Nicola}

Among the interesting offerings of the Asti area, is the Nicola winery in Cocconato d'Asti, the perfect place to spend a day reconnecting with nature and breathing in an air of authenticity. The winery was founded at the behest of Federico Nicola, who in 2002 decided to evolve his grandfather Bertin's amateur activity and built the winery. To the native vines, barbera, grignolino, freisa and nebbiolo, he added some white grape varieties: Chardonnay, sauvignon and arneis. The result? Seven labels to try. 

_{Alessandra Rolla, chef at Cantina Nicola. Photo courtesy of Cantina Nicola}

In a privileged position, which allows you to admire the hilly landscape of Asti, it is also worth stopping here for the cuisine of the Cantina Nicola restaurant, which is helmed by the self-taught young chef Alessandra Rolla, wife of Riccardo, Federico's brother, in the dining room. Born in 1990, she decided to leave her job in an architecture firm to embrace her great passion: gastronomy. In a warm and welcoming environment, you can savour the taste of the territory revisited in new and assured ways: from traditional rabbit ravioli to lemon and liquorice sorbet, leek cooked under the grill to marinated egg and lemon balm oil. You can opt for a fine-dining menu that is either vegetable-based or traditional; whatever the choice, you always leave with a smile.