Pawpaws: what they are and how to use them

The pawpaw defies convention. It is the largest edible fruit native to North America, but it looks and tastes like something far more tropical. Shaped like a mango, the fruit’s pale mint green skin ripens into a deep yellow that verges on burnt orange. Inside there’s soft custardy pulp—ranging in color from cream to sunny yellow to pale orange—and lima bean-sized black seeds.

Over the years, these curious fruits have earned a multitude of folksy nicknames, including Hoosier banana, Quaker delight, hillbilly mango, and banango. No matter what they are called, they have earned a devoted and ever-growing fanbase, including James Beard Award-winning chefs José Andrés, Sean Brock, and Jeremiah Langhorne.

What are pawpaws?

What is known in Latin as Asimina triloba are a part of a family of tropical fruits called custard apples, which also include guanábana, sometimes known as soursop, which is common in Mexico, and cherimoya, one of Peru’s most revered fruits.

Pawpaws punctuate American history. Native Americans routinely ate them, as did the settlers in Jamestown. A writer traveling with conquistador Hernan de Soto’s exploration of Florida in 1540 noted they had “a very good smell, and an excellent taste.” Lewis and Clark relied on pawpaws to stave off starvation. George Washington was a fan of chilled pawpaw desserts, while Thomas Jefferson grew pawpaw trees. Daniel Boone was said to enjoy them on occasion. Audubon painted birds perched next to the exotic looking fruit. They also show up in the writings of Walt Whitman and William Faulkner.

In Illinois, Michigan, and West Virginia, you’ll find villages or towns named after them. This year alone there are nearly 20 food festivals devoted to pawpaws, taking place from New England to the Deep South to the Midwest.

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Where pawpaws grow and when they’re in season

Pawpaws grow in more than half of US states—as far north as the Great Lakes, down south into the Florida Panhandle, and extending westward to the Great Plains. Commonly found along rivers in moist soil, the trees often reach top heights of 15 to 20 feet and grow in groups.

The fruit starts ripening in mid-August, peaking in September and October, and lasting until the first frost. With a similar shape to mangos, pawpaws appear in clusters of two to five fruits, growing to six inches long and weighing up to a pound and a half. To determine if a pawpaw is ripe, look for black speckling on its skin, which may turn from green to yellowish orange. It will have an intensely sweet aroma with fruity, floral overtones, and will be tender to the touch, like a ripe avocado or peach.

What do pawpaws taste like?

Though pawpaws grow high above the Equator, they possess a surprisingly tropical taste. The flavor is often described as mixture of mango and banana, though some of the more than a dozen varieties that grow wild and are cultivated include hints of vanilla, pear, squash, pineapple, cantaloupe, and citrus. All types have custardy, creamy flesh that has been compared to whipped avocado.

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How to cook pawpaws

Pawpaws are temperamental ingredients. The tender fruit needs to be handled with care, since even minor bruising can negatively impact its freshness and flavor. If using ripe pawpaws within three days, store them at room temperature; they’ll last about a week in the fridge. The custardy flesh is beloved by bakers and pastry chefs, but the fruit’s skin and seeds both contain toxins, so they must be completely removed first. With a paring knife, peel off the skin. Alternately, cut the fruit in half and use a spoon to scoop it out. Either way, place the flesh and seeds in a strainer, then use a pestle to push the flesh through the mesh into a bowl below.

Pawpaw pulp is delicious raw, adding a touch of tropicality to dishes. It works especially well with dairy, including over plain yogurt for breakfast and on a scoop of vanilla ice cream as a sweet treat. It also can be used like mango, mixed into salsas and salads to add a smack of sweetness.

The fruit’s flavor compounds are highly volatile, so it’s generally best to use pawpaw in recipes that don’t require high heat cooking, such as ice cream, pudding, and panna cotta. The exception to this rule is baking, where the fruit adds a subtler flavor component to cakes, cookies, and a play on banana bread. Pawpaws show up frequently behind the bar, featuring prominently in Upland Brewing’s barrel-aged golden sour ale, Wildside Winery’s wine, and a liqueur from Vitae Spirits.

Because pawpaw pulp oxidizes quickly, mix in a little lemon juice and press plastic wrap onto its surface before storing it in an airtight container in the refrigerator, where it will last a day or two. If you’re not using it within that timeframe, freeze the pulp.

Where to source pawpaws

Due to their easy bruising and short shelf life, pawpaws generally aren’t sold in supermarkets, though they often make appearances at fall farmers’ markets. To truly enjoy peak pawpaw, the best way to source them is to harvest them in the wild. Since they have a distinct look, outside and inside, they’re easy to identify, even for first-time foragers. Ripe fruit can often be found on the ground. Otherwise, give the slender trees a shake to dislodge fruit still hanging above.

If looking for them on public land, make sure to read the relevant regulations to ensure foraging is allowed. Though these intriguing fruits are a rare treat, they aren’t worth a run in with the law.